Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Replacement - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-28-2010, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch Master/Slave Cylinder Replacement

So, 1st official post & I'm going to try my hand at a How To on my 05 Enth Conv.

-- Background --
I've owned the car for ~2 years & put roughly 20,000 miles on it. Just hit 70,000 miles & over the course of the last 10,000 I've had issues with my clutch pedal. Originally, in hot weather, after driving 15-30 min my clutch pedal would get stuck about 1/2-way up after shifting & I'd have to tap it back up with my toe. After a couple months, when the weather got cool, it didn't happen as much. Took it to the dealership several times & mimic'd the problem for them & the master tech went for a ride with me the second time around. He was pretty up front and said the master/slave was probably the problem, but since it wasn't covered under the warranty (wear & tear, I guess) & if it wasn't a constant thing, he wouldn't worry about it till it finally gave. Well, I just made it through Summer #2 & I'm pretty sure "finally gave" just happened.

I was sitting at the window of the late-night McDonald's drive through for the typical 10+ minute wait & when it was finally time to head out & I went to shift, but the pedal felt abnormally light. So I let it off and tried again, this time trying to shift into first & it felt like the clutch wasn't even disengaged (couldn't move the shifter into first, grinding, etc.). Since I only had <1 mile to get home, I milked it by pumping the clutch 4-5 times to build up enough pressure to get into first, somehow made it into second & stayed there till I got to my garage.

-- What I'm Doing --
Since I couldn't track down a decent How To Replace the Master/Slave Cylinder guide through a few quick searches, I downloaded the Service Manual, ordered a pair of new cylinders & I'm going to see if I can hang onto a few bucks from the stealership. My plan is to give this a try tomorrow or Friday & keep a pretty good step-by-step photo record of it, so if anyone has any experience with this and can offer some helpful tips it would be greatly appreciated. After reading through the manual, it doesn't seem too bad. Then again, it never does till you're 1/2-way through and hit that insignificant step that holds you up for a week, haha.

Last edited by VB05Z; 09-28-2010 at 08:37 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2010, 02:28 PM
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It's not too bad. You've made all of the right moves so far (except letting it go that long) so it seems like you will be able to handle it. Let us know how it goes or if you have any pointers!

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VB05Z View Post
So, 1st official post & I'm going to try my hand at a How To on my 05 Enth Conv.

-- Background --
I've owned the car for ~2 years & put roughly 20,000 miles on it. Just hit 70,000 miles & over the course of the last 10,000 I've had issues with my clutch pedal. Originally, in hot weather, after driving 15-30 min my clutch pedal would get stuck about 1/2-way up after shifting & I'd have to tap it back up with my toe. After a couple months, when the weather got cool, it didn't happen as much. Took it to the dealership several times & mimic'd the problem for them & the master tech went for a ride with me the second time around. He was pretty up front and said the master/slave was probably the problem, but since it wasn't covered under the warranty (wear & tear, I guess) & if it wasn't a constant thing, he wouldn't worry about it till it finally gave. Well, I just made it through Summer #2 & I'm pretty sure "finally gave" just happened.

I was sitting at the window of the late-night McDonald's drive through for the typical 10+ minute wait & when it was finally time to head out & I went to shift, but the pedal felt abnormally light. So I let it off and tried again, this time trying to shift into first & it felt like the clutch wasn't even disengaged (couldn't move the shifter into first, grinding, etc.). Since I only had <1 mile to get home, I milked it by pumping the clutch 4-5 times to build up enough pressure to get into first, somehow made it into second & stayed there till I got to my garage.

-- What I'm Doing --
Since I couldn't track down a decent How To Replace the Master/Slave Cylinder guide through a few quick searches, I downloaded the Service Manual, ordered a pair of new cylinders & I'm going to see if I can hang onto a few bucks from the stealership. My plan is to give this a try tomorrow or Friday & keep a pretty good step-by-step photo record of it, so if anyone has any experience with this and can offer some helpful tips it would be greatly appreciated. After reading through the manual, it doesn't seem too bad. Then again, it never does till you're 1/2-way through and hit that insignificant step that holds you up for a week, haha.
How did this go? Was the Master Cylinder difficult to get to? I've got the same problem and thinking about replacing it myself. Did you by chance take any photos of the process?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-09-2014, 08:39 AM
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Sorry to bring this up from the dead, but I'm curious on any Slave Cylinder DIY's, pics... written steps, etc - As I am going to be doing this to my 2008 350z soon.

At this point I'm not sure if I have to drop the tranny and it's super involved.. or if it's just a bit of hassle and you can get to the Slave by jacking the car up , on stands, and unbolt it from (I assume) the area near the Bell housing.. I will also be running Braided line(s) to help with things.

My particular issue is not pedal problems like this guy experienced (the car has 27k miles).. but when I get past 4500rpms and up (when winding it out in a gear or two) when I push the clutch pedal back in to shift it just 'feels' odd.. Spongy sort of describes it but definitely not like it does under normal driving. It doesn't slip, holds the power fine.. But I can only think of the Slave cylinder as it's something that's prone to go bad in 350's.

I did just bleed/flush the clutch fluid which I have to admit was quite dirty.. so that may have fixed it (I'm still researching how to do the Slave cylinder,.. as I suspect it has not.) -- I didn't take the car out and run it hard after the flush I just did an hour ago.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-09-2014, 01:09 PM
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I believe you can access the slave cylinder pretty easy with the car in the air. I have my car in the air, heres a picture of the cylinder -


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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2014, 11:08 AM
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2008 has an internal slave and the tranny needs to be opened up. 27,000 is awfully low miles to have this problem although the later models seemed to have a lot of problems with both the master and the slave. If you are going to replace I recommend the replacement from ZSpeed - it gets stellar reviews and Joe Allison is an honest vendor. Might as well do both master and slave if you are going to tackle it.

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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-19-2014, 10:17 AM
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Angry

folks is there a step by step guide for replacing the slave cylinder inside the tranny? got a 2008 43,000 miles on it and its clutch sticking and leaking fluid from under the tranny
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 02:33 PM
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Clutch Problems

2006 350Z - 80000 Miles.

I'd like to say first I've had the exact same problem as first poster. If anyone is interested, I'm going to replace the Master, Slave, the lines, bleed it, and see if we can't get rid of this problem in the next week. If there is some actual interest in a 'how to' I'm probably video the whole thing and put a link to youtube.com.

I've been having this problem for three years, only during VERY hard driving, stop and go traffic, or when its really hot. So it was very hard to diagnose. So if anyone is reading this, don't think its your clutch first! This is a fairly easy repair, and its a hell of a lot cheaper. I think I got all the parts necessary for about $150. Including upgraded full stainless steel head shielded hydraulic flex lines.

To check if it is your clutch, get the car rolling, about 20-30mph or so, pop it into 6th, and floor it. If the RPM's shoot up, like your peeling out, your clutch is bad, if the RPM's stays down and rises slowly, like the car normally would, then try replacing the master cylinder. I don't like 'maybe' fixes, so I'm replacing everything in the system.

So again, if anyone is interested, let me know, and I'll film the whole thing and put it on youtube.com.

Last edited by ericd.murphy; 05-06-2017 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Year of car
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 08-25-2018, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ericd.murphy View Post
2006 350Z - 80000 Miles.

So again, if anyone is interested, let me know, and I'll film the whole thing and put it on youtube.com.
Did you happen to film it? My csc just started leaking in the bell housing and i was hoping to get a video or picture walkthrough before i just started tearing into it.

EDIT - bah, nevermind .. just noticed yours was an 06. Thought yours was also an HR like the other posters.
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