the difference a good tuner will make - Page 3 - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
 
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i really would have wanted bigger ones but i didnt for two reasons:
1. its my daily for now (im on my quest for a low milage 01-03 white s2k for a beater)
2. i got these brand spanking new for over 1/2 off retail

ive been pretty happy with the car before the cam install in the 268 tune. its hasnt lost to a car its ran (all been low and mid 13 sec cars). i do admit i play a lil on the street (its due to the stupid gotat driving bf of mine) but i would like to break 13s on DR with less then 5 grand into power mods and tuning.

i do have breather mods: here is the list:
jwt popcharger with heat shield and titek cf intake duct (doubtful the duct does anything)
motor dyne 5/16
stillin SS headers
IP test pipes
greddy evo2
utec
tomei 264
jwt springs and shims
(i had a new nismo cai but sold it bc i didnt want to risk a cai in atl driving conditions)

i would love for the peak hp to shift to the right and the tq to stay put
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-08-2008, 09:59 PM
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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Mar 8 2008, 08:54 PM)
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i would love for the peak hp to shift to the right and the tq to stay put

before variable cam timing, that would have been difficult. Today, with the right tuning, you'll hardly notice the torque dip, but the power up top will come on strong.


You are going to roughly shift power 1000rpm to the right with the 264 (268?) Tomei.

Your peak power should be right around/at 7000-7250rpm. If it were me (and it's not) and it were my show, I wouldn't spin it past 7400rpm.


stop street racing. It's totally gay..


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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
 
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QUOTE (illz33 @ Mar 8 2008, 07:59 PM)
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before variable cam timing, that would have been difficult. Today, with the right tuning, you'll hardly notice the torque dip, but the power up top will come on strong.


You are going to roughly shift power 1000rpm to the right with the 264 (268?) Tomei.

Your peak power should be right around/at 7000-7250rpm. If it were me (and it's not) and it were my show, I wouldn't spin it past 7400rpm.


stop street racing. It's totally gay..
thanks for the input, im excited about the extra power band i am going to get and happy i upgraded my valve train to compensate. im not the one to rev that high on a daily basis, specially with gas being like it is. and street racing is le ghey, just had to put the other na vq boys and a m3 and sti in their places
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 01:37 AM
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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Mar 9 2008, 12:09 AM)
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thanks for the input, im excited about the extra power band i am going to get and happy i upgraded my valve train to compensate. im not the one to rev that high on a daily basis, specially with gas being like it is.

p.s. The reason I mentioned not going above 7400 was due to your current bottom end (short block). Otherwise, you could be up around 7800-8200, but your cams will not pull that high.

I'd be stoked too. I once had a set of cams in your spec that I was going to install. Hence the reason I'm giving you the numbers.

You're going to have a nice setup. What about the rest of the car? (suspension)


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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 03:59 AM
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QUOTE (illz33 @ Mar 8 2008, 04:27 PM)
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Those 264 Tomei's are good stuff. Would be my choice (or 272) for cams with the non revup VQ.

Your hp suffers up top because of the "normal" intake restrictions (plenum, etc) of the non revup. Those cams will CERTAINLY open that can of worms up.

Did you do a plenum spacer of some sorts? That helps the inbalance on the non revup.


I would imagine you'll top 280whp.. But, don't worry if you don't, it'll still pull like lightning with excellent throttle response. Dynos are just rollers that put out inaccurate numbers from dyno to dyno.. Don't put much stock in them. As long as you our happy that is all that matters. And that you have more power than before.. and can use it more often.


Did you touch the rear diff yet? LSD or 3.9 + R&P? THAT, with cams is fire... pure fire.
R&P??? what is that...just curious.

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 04:07 AM
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R&P = Ring & Pinion

06 Touring 5AT
-UpRev Osirus - 3.9 Gears - Nismo Cams - Nismo Headers - B-Line test pipes - AAM Y-Pipe - Nismo Exhaust - Motordyne 5/16" spacer
- JWT Pop Charger
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 06:03 AM
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QUOTE (chrisaray @ Mar 9 2008, 02:07 AM)
Quote:
R&P = Ring & Pinion
What he said^


QUOTE (danimaldaisy @ Mar 9 2008, 01:59 AM)
Quote:
R&P??? what is that...just curious.
yeah, sorry.. I didn't type that up clear with that + in there.



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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-09-2008, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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QUOTE (illz33 @ Mar 8 2008, 11:37 PM)
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p.s. The reason I mentioned not going above 7400 was due to your current bottom end (short block). Otherwise, you could be up around 7800-8200, but your cams will not pull that high.

I'd be stoked too. I once had a set of cams in your spec that I was going to install. Hence the reason I'm giving you the numbers.

You're going to have a nice setup. What about the rest of the car? (suspension)

i just have tein s techs which i havent had any problem with.... i upgraded the brakes and rotors but they are still oem spec...i was about to order sways then BAM! rock hit my wind shield and put those back another week....since im pretty maxed out on power mods besides nitrious im going to work on the little things like some suspension and braking things and also try to sell my axis rims so i can get some black ccw classics
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-10-2008, 03:55 AM
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if you have over 60k i would HIGHLY recommend replacing the swaybar end links, especially since you will be getting sways!

i have been troubleshooting swaybar walk for a while....replacing all four endlinks 2 days ago totally solved my problem...now it's down to struts/shocks with better dampening, and an alignment and i believe i am done.

just because the endlinks do not look worn does not mean they are ok...all 4 of mine were still sealed and had grease in them, but they wore out anyway....the passenger rear broke in half removing them( i was not being rough)....so i took a hammer and busted it open....seems the inner tip of the ball has wear.....i first replaced the fronts....then the rears a week later....the rears were actually the problem...but why only replace 2 of them.

if you decide against sways, replace the swaybar bushings with at least rubber bushings.....all can be purchased from mynismo.com ( online nissan dealer in duarte, ca) for under 90.00 shipped.

simply amazing how worn swaybar bushings and endlinks can make the Z feel like a civic with no swaybars, worn struts and 200,000k on the stock bushings.....For a while I hated the Z! until i finally fixed it.

Varis duct, K&N drop in , Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer, Megan Headers, Megan Y pipe, Stock H.I.D. conversion, Topspeed A-arms w/adjustable camber, BC Racing Coilovers, Hotchkis sways (front stiffest rear middle). Stern Beast ST1 19 inch staggered wheels , Falken FK-452 Rubber. Whiteline urethane bushings
Next temporary mod is resonated test pipes with the stock y-pipe.
Next year Stillen supercharger stage 2 kit---order stage 3 pulley separately.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-11-2008, 02:01 PM
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QUOTE (baby_ruiner @ Mar 8 2008, 03:47 PM)
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tis true. when i was richer the car ran like crap. im thinking with cams in it it will want it a lil richer. any thoughts. i think icobra is around 11 ish.
I'm tuned to 12.7:1.

Aaron B.
'08 Mustang GT/CS
'87 Nissan Hardbody - The "Mud Mobile" (454,000 miles and still counting)

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