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post #41 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 11:29 PM
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Hi powdrhound/John,

Today I took apart my entire driver's side door assembly to try and fix the problem with my window. I'm basically having the exact same issue. (Although my window rolls up and down without issue, when I open the door the window does not crack like it should! Assuming this is a combination of the motor loosening up the cables and gravity doing it's thing, the problem should be elementary to resolve, note that I can hear the motor work when I depress the switch used when the door is closed/open to trigger the window).

To answer your question: According to the factory repair manual, the window should drop 10mm upon opening the door. The manual I'm using is for a 2006 350Z. I'm not sure if there is a difference between the 03-05 and 07-09s.

Steps I took:

1) Removed the door finisher
2) Removed the entire window from the door.
3) Removed the panel with the regulator and motor installed on it.
4) Cleaned all the window tracks in the door with some Lexol Vinylex(This stuff is great for keeping rubber, plastics, and vinyl clean, moist and supple)
5) Cleaned the railings for the regulator.
6) Lubricated all the railings and window tracks with a dry lubricant. Note you should not use heavy duty greases! A dry lubricant is best so dust/dirt does not stick to it. WD40 is too thin for this application, you WILL burn your motor out if you use this due to insufficient lubcrication and added friction. This stuff is really best used for initial cleanings and removing sticky bolts and such. I used a combination of liquid wrench dry lubricant and Finish Line bike chain grease(Also a dry lubcricant almost like a pasty wax when it drys). I would have preferred to use Silicon based grease since this looks to be what the factory is using, but I didn't have any on hand.
7) Cleaned the window.
8) Re-installed the regulator/motor panel.
9) Re-installed the window.
10) Tested and did final adjustments on the window bolts.
11) Re-installed the door finisher.

I spent about 2.5 hours(start to finish) and Although I was able to resolve some of the creeks my window was making and a few other problems I noticed while I was taking the door apart. The window is still not dropping the 10mm it's supposed to. The door rolls up a little faster now and it's much quieter.

I believe the root cause might be the felt pads that help guide the window on it's tracks and prevent wobbling when opening/closing the door. One of them appears to be adjustable(The one mounted on the regulator panel). I'm going to try cleaning it and adjusting it. I also forgot about the window position reset switch procedure. I'll try that as well. Worst case scenario my regulator cabling just might have stretched over time and that could be the issue. Either way this is going to take more time to do in depth troubleshooting than I had time for today. Perhaps tomorrow I can make some more progress.

Good luck!
-Icer
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post #42 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 05:50 PM
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Follow-up to my last post.

I did more work on my window motor/regulator on Sunday(25th).

I discovered that the root cause of the binding was due to the steel cable winding through the regulator guide tubes and pulleys. There's 5 points where the cable makes 90+ degree turns. Four of these points are running through pulleys, however the 5th is just a plastic corner with a guide groove cut into it, this corner causes much of the friction on the cable. However the majority of the friction is caused by the guide tubing. Any dirt or dust that accumulates on the cable gets pushed through these tubes and collects inside of them. I've found the best way to deal with this is cleaning the cable and guide tubing using a strong solvent that will remove any grease/debris on the cable without damaging the plastic tubing(Mass air flow sensor cleaner works great and I'm sure carb. cleaner will do the trick as well). Then follow up with some liquid graphite in all the guide tubing. Do NOT use grease on the cable! If you plan on cleaning and re-greasing the guide rails that house the window mount platforms, be sure to keep it off the cable!

Tips:
1) For ease of cleaning the tubing and cable/rails. Remove the window motor from the main regulator plate and then remount the main pulley housing. This will allow you to slide the window mount plates up and down their tracks by hand for a thorough cleaning/re-greasing. It will also give you a good idea of how much friction you are dealing with and where it's centralized.

2) I bought some white lithium based grease for the slide rails/tracks(Can be found at just about any auto parts store). This grease is actually recommended for window regulators, but it's fairly thick. Be extremely careful not to get it on the cable near the guide tubes. I think using Silicone grease is probably still the better option.

3) While you're cleaning your regulator. I recommend pulling the electric motor apart and cleaning up the brushes and armature. Lightly sand the copper contacts on the armature where the brushes make contact. It also wouldn't hurt to add a little grease on the worm screw and back of the motor shaft where it meets up with the bushing inside the motor housing. (I think it's odd that this motor doesn't have any bearings installed around either end of the shaft). Note that it's a little tricky re-installing the armature. The brushes will need to be held back while you reinsert the armature. There's small holes where you can insert a needle to prevent the brushes from pushing back out. Push one of the brushes in their housing while looking down in the holes. You will see the spring arm moving in there, insert a needle or toothpick between the housing and spring arm. This will keep the brush in place until after you re-install the motor armature. If anyone knows of an easier way or doing this, please let me know.

That about covers it!
-Icer
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post #43 of 48 (permalink) Old 09-01-2015, 04:14 PM
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Just buy a new motor, you can clean, replace the brush with an rc brush and solder it in, everything will eventually fail, and if you're lucky it'll be in the rain like mine lol. New motor is like 50-80 and install it yourself its easy. Replacement REPN468708 Window Motor | Auto Parts Warehouse
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post #44 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-01-2015, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gooner View Post
Just buy a new motor, you can clean, replace the brush with an rc brush and solder it in, everything will eventually fail, and if you're lucky it'll be in the rain like mine lol. New motor is like 50-80 and install it yourself its easy. Replacement REPN468708 Window Motor | Auto Parts Warehouse
I used that part # and it burnt out 2 months later...

I've read that the regulator has an adjustable guider and I'm betting that it is pushing too hard on the glass, but there is no way to know that is the case, or if I just got a bad motor. I will put in a warranty claim and adjust the regulator guide upon the next install. But after reading all of the "my window's fucked" threads idk what to expect.

When I bought the car the problem was intermittent, I thought no big deal, I can replace a window motor (I'm a motorcycle mechanic) but the intermittent problems came back shortly after replacement, and to say the least I am a bit wary of a new motor alone doing any better...

If anyone has had similar issues I'm open to suggestions.

Problems:

Sporadic auto-down after auto up function.
Slow upward movement.
Down all the way - no back up unless panel removed and I assist with a pull.

Now it's fully non-functional just like the last motor. Something wonky with the regulator? Switch is clicking and doing it's thing but I've got no movement at all anymore.
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post #45 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-02-2015, 02:11 PM
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Cool put up with it

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaggedOutZ View Post
I used that part # and it burnt out 2 months later...

I've read that the regulator has an adjustable guider and I'm betting that it is pushing too hard on the glass, but there is no way to know that is the case, or if I just got a bad motor. I will put in a warranty claim and adjust the regulator guide upon the next install. But after reading all of the "my window's fucked" threads idk what to expect.

When I bought the car the problem was intermittent, I thought no big deal, I can replace a window motor (I'm a motorcycle mechanic) but the intermittent problems came back shortly after replacement, and to say the least I am a bit wary of a new motor alone doing any better...

If anyone has had similar issues I'm open to suggestions.

Problems:

Sporadic auto-down after auto up function.
Slow upward movement.
Down all the way - no back up unless panel removed and I assist with a pull.

Now it's fully non-functional just like the last motor. Something wonky with the regulator? Switch is clicking and doing it's thing but I've got no movement at all anymore.

After owning my 03 Z for 13 years(95k miles) ,I have just started to have the dreaded window problems(driver's side only). Basically,at times it gets stuck,
refusing to go up. Researching this problem on the forums,I took the advice of
beating on the inside door panel while holding the switch down.
It worked.
However,recently the window will not fully close the last inch or so when you close the door. Funny thing,the weather got cooler,it now closes all the way.
I've noted the expansion and contraction issues with this and various switches due to the change of outside temperatures.
Relating to this,I had some issues with seat controls not working.
Heating with a hairdryer fix them.

Just better quality parts needed in the original car.

I'm just putting up with the window problem for the time being.
Being in the south,I hardly roll down the window anyhow. Its A/C or nothing.
Furthermore,hate to take the door apart and possibly get some rattles
that were not there after reassembly.
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post #46 of 48 (permalink) Old 11-03-2015, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EUROZ View Post
After owning my 03 Z for 13 years(95k miles) ,I have just started to have the dreaded window problems(driver's side only). Basically,at times it gets stuck,
refusing to go up. Researching this problem on the forums,I took the advice of
beating on the inside door panel while holding the switch down.
It worked.
However,recently the window will not fully close the last inch or so when you close the door. Funny thing,the weather got cooler,it now closes all the way.
I've noted the expansion and contraction issues with this and various switches due to the change of outside temperatures.
Relating to this,I had some issues with seat controls not working.
Heating with a hairdryer fix them.

Just better quality parts needed in the original car.

I'm just putting up with the window problem for the time being.
Being in the south,I hardly roll down the window anyhow. Its A/C or nothing.
Furthermore,hate to take the door apart and possibly get some rattles
that were not there after reassembly.

Well I'm not worried about taking the door apart, at this point I could probably do it in my sleep. I ordered a new Dorman replacement motor instead of that piece of garbage recommended above. I tried to return it for warranty and they claim it's out of stock and I have to pay shipping back to them?? I'll ship it back because I want my money back, but their website shows in stock and they know the next one will fail too, so that is their solution. Terrible, I hope my only problem is a bad motor...
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post #47 of 48 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 07:21 PM
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I was lucky when my drivers side motor failed after I'd had the car for about 6 weeks but luckily i got it replaced under warranty. Two years ago my passenger motor started to fail and there was no way i was paying the price that my Nissan Stealership wanted. I'd read about everyone stripping their motors only to find that a few weeks later they failed again.
The way that i fixed mine (like i said 2 years ago and still perfect) was to replace the brushes as it seemed to me that these are the weak link in these motors. There are a couple of places where you can buy replacement brushes and for no more than $15 which to me seems like a bargain when faced with bills of over a hundred bucks. One of the places is Maplins, the other is Radioshack. They can also be bought from Eurton Electric Company part number; 22217140 and cost @$7/pair. Reedy Serrated Brushes. Part number; 767 and cost @ $8 pair. There is a small amount of adjustment that needs to be made with a Swiss file but other than that they fit like a glove and I've had no trouble since. I hope this is of some help.
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post #48 of 48 (permalink) Old 07-28-2017, 10:39 AM
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nice infoemation. thanks you
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