Rear Hatch Opening Fix - Page 3 - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-04-2006, 08:40 PM
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I've had my struts replaced by Nissan before and I'm waiting on new ones to come in to replace them again. They have done the spring fix and it helped the problem with it not fully releasing but its cropped back up. I don't understand what is so difficult about building a car to not have these kind of problems...
If only it were that easy. Unfortunately our cars go down an assembly line and are assembled by several thousand people. I am not sure on the cycle time of a Z from start to finish but lets say a Frontier pickup takes roughly 5-6 hours to assemble from raw painted body to driving it on the test track. From Flat sheets of metal that gets stamped,welded,assembled,painted and then built 18-20 hours. It is truly amazing to watch. It is mind boggling that you can go from a pile of parts to a fully assembled car in less than 24 hours. If most people knew how quick their car was built they would probably never drive again. They just dont think about it. If you ever get a chance to restore an old car you will see what I mean. You think this isnt that hard but making everything line up and work right the first time can be hell. Then look at how long it takes you.

I guess the hardest thing is that not all cars show the same issues. It might be one out of every hundred that does. Or even on in a thousand. Most times it is supplier quality that you just get a batch of inferior parts.Not to say bad parts and they do work but not as well as they should. Then there are assembly issues. I had the same issue and as the rest of you (without the addition of a spoiler) and it was a alignment issue of the striker to the lock mechanism that was dragging on the side when you popped the hatch. The quick fix for this is to hit the striker with a hammer in the direction it needs to go. Just be careful not to hit any interior panels when you do this. Dont worry you wont hurt the striker. Thats how they fix trunk lids and doors inside a car plant.

Sorry if I got on a little rant but car plants are very near and dear to my heart. If you ever get a chance to tour a plant I highly reccomend it. Its like Willy wonka for car geeks. Hell you never know it might even change your life...I know it did mine. I went from working at Goodyear running a warehouse,distribution and reatread shop to working inside a car plant everyday and I love it. Even after several years I will look out at the line and it just blows my mind that I am doing what I love ,getting paid for it and I get to play with cars and trucks everyday. My only regret is that I didnt find my dream job sooner.Ok...I'm done now

"I usually downshift when I'm near a Prius so they can hear me hurting the environment"

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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-07-2006, 05:57 PM
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The plastic liner pops out pretty easily. I looked at every angle before I started carefully prying it off. I popped the ends near the springs with a screwdriver, then slowly pulled the rest of the liner off, careful not to bend it. The clips are orange, I believe. The slide in sideways into the slot that is molded into the liner.

While you're doing this, you might as well take off the rear wiper. That's what I was doing originally. Got rid of the wiper, the motor, the weight, and now I have a nice, smooth window hatch.


OK, thanks SmoothZ!

After looking at it more carefully, I see where to start!

I'll wait until later and do as you suggest with the rear wiper also.


All best,
Joe



2003 Daytona Blue Touring 6MT . . . Nismo CAI, Nismo spoiler, B&M shifter, Borla exhaust
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-04-2006, 03:55 PM
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I'm glad this popped up. Just bought my tre-fitty and among a few others am having this problem. i will search for the 3 pence passenger-window-not-rolling-down-fix.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-03-2007, 07:36 PM
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Glad I saw this thread. I just removed the weight. Be prepared to break a couple of the tabs that go in the metal clips, especially if your Z is older and/or is stored outside. The plastic becomes brittle and snaps off easily.
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-04-2008, 11:20 AM
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QUOTE (SERX93 @ Sep 4 2006, 04:40 PM)
Quote:
I had the same issue and as the rest of you (without the addition of a spoiler) and it was a alignment issue of the striker to the lock mechanism that was dragging on the side when you popped the hatch. The quick fix for this is to hit the striker with a hammer in the direction it needs to go. Just be careful not to hit any interior panels when you do this. Dont worry you wont hurt the striker. Thats how they fix trunk lids and doors inside a car plant.

Sorry if I got on a little rant but car plants are very near and dear to my heart.


1st off - SWEEET thread, glad I stubbled upon it. I think I have this same drag/striker problem. Will however do the easiest mod first and hopefully no have to take the hatch lid plastic off. The bottom truck plastic is easier and less acceptable to breaking. I have Track model so I have spoiler.. .

2nd - Car plants rock! One of my dream jobs is being a Manufacturing Engineer for a assembly line or machining facility that makes cool parts or assembles a sports car and or something cool. Other is being a test Engineer that gets to drive and beat the shit out of cars for quality and or R&D purposes. I'll take the later of the two jobs

- 2006 350Z Track, Dayton Blue, JWT intake. Gunning for 3100lb 1/2tank weight and 280whp NA.
- used to HPDE a 95 Civic w/ 210whp K20A2 6spd at 2480lbs w/driver & full tank
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-08-2008, 09:31 PM
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QUOTE (pwrslide2 @ Sep 4 2008, 07:20 AM)
Quote:
1st off - SWEEET thread, glad I stubbled upon it. I think I have this same drag/striker problem. Will however do the easiest mod first and hopefully no have to take the hatch lid plastic off. The bottom truck plastic is easier and less acceptable to breaking. I have Track model so I have spoiler.. .
I put a penny in each of the spring things attached to the hatch. Seems to be working fairly well. I didn't even bother with the striker thing.

- 2006 350Z Track, Dayton Blue, JWT intake. Gunning for 3100lb 1/2tank weight and 280whp NA.
- used to HPDE a 95 Civic w/ 210whp K20A2 6spd at 2480lbs w/driver & full tank
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-21-2010, 05:59 PM
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I removed the weight and did the penny trick and it worked. Now the hatch opens and it stays open. let's see for how long
thanks guys

2005 350Z Enthusiast, Red

Last edited by sorin129; 11-21-2010 at 06:24 PM.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 03-29-2011, 04:19 PM
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Thanks guys it worked for me. Easiest fix for an annoying problem.

Just pulled on the plastic starting the center latch loop and pulled. Takes a little courage to pull hoping you wont break something important.

Most over-engineered little thing. it had oil on it and foam and was suspended inside the bracket.

Last edited by PracticeDrifter; 03-29-2011 at 04:22 PM.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 09:32 PM
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i have a 06 roadster 350z and i can't even get the trunk open any sugg to get it open without sending it in.

Last edited by saej; 10-12-2011 at 09:34 PM.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 10-12-2011, 09:36 PM
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how can i get the trunk open on a 350z roadstere
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