Torque Damper'S - Page 7 - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
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post #61 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 07:52 PM
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Should have been more clear with my 'their cromoly' note. That's exactly what I meant. I want a Z with the stiffest suspension, lightest flywheel, lightest weight Z, and even I'm not sure I would want these things on my engine. IMO they do need at leas a small amount of flex. In fact, I'd be concerned about damaging the frame with these.


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post #62 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 07:55 PM
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While it is great that they dont give....someone correct me if I am wrong but wouldnt that transmit a huge amount of noise and vibration into the cockpit? After all one function of the mounts is to dampen or decrease that exact thing.
Yeah it would probably vibrate your fillings out. Good for a racer, not so much for a daily driver.


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post #63 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-23-2007, 08:26 PM
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That's the description of those mounts: "These will provide a more direct feel to the driver, and are a must for high hp, high torque situations. Because they are solid, there will be a moderate increase in NVH."

NVH = Noise, Vibration, & Harshness.

Sounds like the elements of a race car to me.

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post #64 of 68 (permalink) Old 12-24-2007, 05:46 PM
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Sorry if I offended you because that was not my intention. I shouldn't have even typed that stupid comment about the pockets, now that I reread it.

I was looking at your mod list on the first page and surmised that you had the time and money well invested in getting the Z to the magic 300 point. Unfortunately, some of us don't have that time.
I'm not offended at all, but I'm not sure what my build or budget has to do with an engine damper....

The stiffer motor mounts will not damage the frame at all - no matter what power you are running. But they are a far more effective means of limiting engine movement vs an engine damper (which we sell as well...only the Ingalls one though, but I've never tried it as it wont fit on my car due to my catch can). I've had several dampers on my car over the years...some worked a noticeable amount, some didnt work at all. I also broke a couple of them at 2 separate track days, telling me they weren't doing a damn thing at the end of the day. All I am saying is that in my eyes, the ones I've used to date are akin to grounding kits...look fancy, not at all effective, as the mounts on the Z are very rigid. If you feel that an engine damper is a good investment for you, go ahead and get it...different strokes for different folks I have found for my needs and my setup, it would amount to nothing more than something shiny in the engine bay.
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post #65 of 68 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 01:44 PM
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Hi guys,

I put Stillen Dampener just yesterday on my car.

Can you advise, do I have to do the adjustments after having installed it?

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post #66 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 02:52 PM
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do these engine dampers really do anything? i've read, and seems like the best two are the ingalls and stillen. and seems like from what i've gathered, that they both mount differently. so instead of using one, WHAT IF YOU HAD BOTH?? if they work like they are suppose to, seems like that would be the way to go! ultimate stiffy!?
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post #67 of 68 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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I installed the Ingall's the other day. Yes it does reduce the amount that the engine torques over, and yes it does also increase NVH levels (albeit only just noticably). I also have mine set close to its stiffest setting, and im sure if i backed it off NVH levels would also drop.

As for mounting both... IMO its a waste of time and engine bay room. If you want the engine to be that solid get some solid mounts made up.

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post #68 of 68 (permalink) Old 02-13-2009, 11:59 PM
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QUOTE ([Cerberus] @ Dec 21 2007, 06:03 PM)
Your image doesn't make sense to me. I think your thought process is a little off. The The further a reaction force is from the center of rotation means the less force it has to apply to counter the torque of rotation. As long as it is perpendicular to rotation that is. so position B would require less force to counter the engine rotation. position A will barely work if at all, and the stillen position is second best. This is all moot if you just make a solid connection, and are not relying on any sort of shock.

This would be another cheap mod, some steel plate, two hiem joints and some threaded rod would make this for 50$ or less.

I like your idea of making your own torque damper...but then again, I'm a huge DIY kind of guy. I wonder if using a turnbuckle would be a nice way to have an easily adjustable home-made torque dampener...*rubs chin in thought* would just have to make sure the threads wouldn't get stripped under the stresses of the initial launch...
The NVH should be rendered moot with sound dampening material (i.e. dynamat, brown bread) which, if you're in the running for a show car with sound system, you're going to need anyway, right?

Also, in my reading I've heard from a few drivers that, though the ingall's is the best quality dampener out right now, it can only be used with OEM I'm assuming you shouldn't even consider it if you were FI or installing a catch can, etc. right? If that IS the case...then I think a couple steel plates with the couplers and perhaps a turnbuckle would be the best bet (completely custom baby, fit your dampening and engine bay conservation needs! )

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