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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Fignutz View Post
+1 if you have all this money to go and build an NA car then just do FI its cheaper and you'll wee more gains for the price of all these NA mods to even hit 300whp you can buy a Vortech SC kit and be throwing down 340whp for cheaper do reaserch.... bottom line
I don't agree 100% with F/I over N/A. N/A does have benefits. Biggest one is classing in certain types of amateur and pro racing. F/I places you into a whole new ball game. Also F/I in the long terms cost more. Maintenance and up-keep is costly on a F/I car.

My post you quoted wasn't ment as F/I is "better" than N/A. More of that the owner needs to first figure out what the purpose of the car will be and what their budget is.

IE: I'm seriously considering a Z34 and plan on making it 90% road racing and 10% weekend cruiser. My first mods I feel will benefit me on the track are; oil cooler, better brake pads and, a wheel/tire combo. After that a Quaife diff. As I haven't done much research on mods for the Z34 I don't know what to do after that. But as you can see, N/A is my preferred choice over F/I. I guess owning a TT350Z has taught me a lot of the benefits & downsides of each.

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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 05:50 PM
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I don't feel there's much need to rekindle the whole NA vs. FI debate on a thread that is dedicated to NA modifications. Each solution has its merits. And as Robert_K stated, many classes of racing dictate NA only, so any discussion of FI is pointless.

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
IE: I'm seriously considering a Z34 and plan on making it 90% road racing and 10% weekend cruiser. My first mods I feel will benefit me on the track are; oil cooler, better brake pads and, a wheel/tire combo. After that a Quaife diff.
In for the part out thread! lol

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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-11-2010, 11:05 PM
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In for the part out thread! lol
LOL Nope going to sell my 350Z. If I do acquire a 370Z I do a basic short block for the 350Z and make it my daily driver, like it is already, and the 370Z will be the toy car.

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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 12:33 AM
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Can anyone explain to me what F/1 is? And the difference between N/A and F/1?...Another thing,...can anyone give me a list of parts that aren't necessary on my 06' Z that i can take off for weight? And with past experience and knowledge; any tips or advice? I was going to start off with an HKS Hi-power ti true dual ex.

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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-06-2011, 12:11 PM
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I'm having a hell of a time picking cams. The car is a daily, I want the idle to be relatively smooth. I want as much out of it as possible within reason.

Motor has Injen Cai, Motordyne MREV2, 5/16th spacer, ARTs, XYZ with resonator, headers, Agency Power Ti cat back, UPREV tune.

Build consists of 88mm Brian Crower crank BC Econo rods, JE 96.5mm 11.0.1 pistons +1mm Manley valves.

I have not bought the cams or springs yet I need help deciding on them.

The car is an 06 REVUP.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 05:58 AM
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Can anyone explain to me what F/1 is? And the difference between N/A and F/1?...Another thing,...can anyone give me a list of parts that aren't necessary on my 06' Z that i can take off for weight? And with past experience and knowledge; any tips or advice? I was going to start off with an HKS Hi-power ti true dual ex.

F/I is Force Induction. IE; Nitrous, supercharger/blower and/or Turbo(s).

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I'm having a hell of a time picking cams. The car is a daily, I want the idle to be relatively smooth. I want as much out of it as possible within reason.

Motor has Injen Cai, Motordyne MREV2, 5/16th spacer, ARTs, XYZ with resonator, headers, Agency Power Ti cat back, UPREV tune.

Build consists of 88mm Brian Crower crank BC Econo rods, JE 96.5mm 11.0.1 pistons +1mm Manley valves.

I have not bought the cams or springs yet I need help deciding on them.

The car is an 06 REVUP.
With 11.0:1 you're going to have a bit higher idle. And from the sounds of it I would go with the JWT C8R cams.

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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:57 AM
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I have no problem with higher idle, I just don't want it to sound/feel like a cammed muscle car.

I am already at almost 1000 due to changes made to get to 271/264 through UPREV on my current mods.

Thanks I will look into the C8R.


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Injen Cai, Motordyne MREV2, 5/16th spacer, ARTs, XYZ with resonator, TB coolant delete, Jet hotted headers, Agency Power Ti, UPREV tune, Quaife with 4.083s, AMR 13k/11k coilovers, Hotchkiss sways, Whiteline end links & SPC front and rear camber arms, Kenwood DDX 896/KNA G610 DVD NAV, Alpine MRP 1000 4 channel running Image Dynamics CX64s, MRP 500 running JL Audio 10W3V3 in Wicked CAS magic box.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:09 PM
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I just noticed in your sig how huge your rotors are. Nice.

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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:29 PM
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They are G37S size (14/13") and the calipers are Akebonos from a G37s.

Thanks


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Injen Cai, Motordyne MREV2, 5/16th spacer, ARTs, XYZ with resonator, TB coolant delete, Jet hotted headers, Agency Power Ti, UPREV tune, Quaife with 4.083s, AMR 13k/11k coilovers, Hotchkiss sways, Whiteline end links & SPC front and rear camber arms, Kenwood DDX 896/KNA G610 DVD NAV, Alpine MRP 1000 4 channel running Image Dynamics CX64s, MRP 500 running JL Audio 10W3V3 in Wicked CAS magic box.
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