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Nissans built in code reader

64K views 24 replies 16 participants last post by  Mits99099 
#1 ·
Not sure if this is common knowledge or not (I did a search and couldn't find it), but our z's have a built in code reader. No need to go to autozone, or buy a reader anymore.

Here is how it works:

By following the ECU reset procedure outlined in this site, when the SEL light starts blinking, the blinks actually mean something.

The first number of the code are long blinks, and the subsequent short blinks are the other numbers. a blink of 10 is zero. The code will keep repeating itself as long as you let it.

So 10 long blinks followed by 4 short blinks, followed by 4 short blinks, followed by 2 short blinks = code (P)0442 EVAP control system.

If you turn off the ignition while this is going on, the code is still stored, and upon start up the SEL light will appear in its normal soild state, but if you follow the reset procedure after you are done counting the blinks (Hold the accelerator pedal down for more then 10 seconds, then release pedal and turn key to off), then upon starting the car, the SEL light will be off and the code reset.
 
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#4 ·
Well. That was interesting. Followed the instructions ..

1 (one) Long Blink
2 (two) Short Blinks
8 (eight) Short Blinks
3 (three) Short Blinks

This repeated .. the same several times. This gives me then .. I would assume ..

(P)1283

Uhhh. Don't see that code.

Edit:

Searching on the net, that error code shows on a Titan forum ..

P1283 - A/F Sensor

 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1
 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 heater
 Fuel pressure
 Injector
 Intake air leaks
 
#5 ·
QUOTE (eTraxx @ Jul 29 2008, 01:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=548024
Well. That was interesting. Followed the instructions ..

1 (one) Long Blink
2 (two) Short Blinks
8 (eight) Short Blinks
3 (three) Short Blinks

This repeated .. the same several times. This gives me then .. I would assume ..

(P)1283

Uhhh. Don't see that code.

Edit:

Searching on the net, that error code shows on a Titan forum ..

P1283 - A/F Sensor

 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1
 Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 heater
 Fuel pressure
 Injector
 Intake air leaks

Yes P1283 is a code for lean condition A/F sensor 1 bank 2

the link above does not show all the codes, but some of the more common ones, but the procedure works
 
#11 ·
QUOTE (INNERCOOL22 @ Jul 30 2008, 09:52 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=548272
This procedure was used with pre 1996 vehicles with OBD1 ECU's. Cycle the ignition a few times holding the gas all the way down and count the check engine light flashes. Same Sh1t Different Decade.
codes were a lot simpler also, so procedure was simple to use, easier when only looking for 2 numbers instead of 4
 
#12 ·
I got P0000
My car sounds like a misfire.
Problem is the car has rarely been driven.
11 miles the last 4 years.
I had added fuel stabiliser couple months ago.
It was running fine up to 2 days ago.
I start it up regularly, just drive it aound the block sometimes.
The car now has 977 miles on the odo.
Could it be the cat is all rusted?
From the front the engine sounds normal.
You can hear the misfire loudly from the rear and feel it when moving....
Any suggestions? I am in South Florida.
 
#13 ·
QUOTE (raycs7 @ Aug 16 2008, 09:11 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=551060
I got P0000
My car sounds like a misfire.
Problem is the car has rarely been driven.
11 miles the last 4 years.
I had added fuel stabiliser couple months ago.
It was running fine up to 2 days ago.
I start it up regularly, just drive it aound the block sometimes.
The car now has 977 miles on the odo.
Could it be the cat is all rusted?
From the front the engine sounds normal.
You can hear the misfire loudly from the rear and feel it when moving....
Any suggestions? I am in South Florida.

Code P0000 is the all ok code? Does your check engine light come on??
 
#16 ·
QUOTE (westpak @ Jul 29 2008, 08:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=548121
come on that has to be the worst way to read codes, I can just see missing a fast blink along the way and get the wrong code LOL

you have 30 bucks? buy one of these and you can read and clear the codes http://www.digimoto.com/shop/p-20-ctool-obd-ii.aspx
Just buy a $4.00 stop watch or if your watch if it has a second hand on it use that..works every time for me . No need to spend $ 30 bucks for the same info.
 
#17 ·
QUOTE (vindiesel @ Dec 2 2008, 10:30 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=561756
Just buy a $4.00 stop watch or if your watch if it has a second hand on it use that..works every time for me . No need to spend $ 30 bucks for the same info.
well I guess if you are on a budget 30 bucks will break the piggy bank
 
#18 ·
I used the procedure outlined to troubleshoot the MIL (engine light) that appeared. Turned out it was P0603 - due to disconneting the battery terminals a few times while i was working on the Z. The code wasn't listed on the wiki so i added it in for the benefit of others.

One tip - does help to use a watch to time the steps - it turns out my human seconds were way out :)
 
#19 ·
:bump: For those new members that are interested in the codes, this whole section is good for solving common problems.
 
#20 ·
I've read your post long time ago.. thanks to mole, But now i'm having hard time following those blinks and I'm not sure those blinks is right for me to decode. Now i'm considering to buy a car code reader. Is someone here have tried OBD I or OBD II, which is easy to use? i found this site carcodereader.org im planning to purchase it here but im not quit sure. please help choose the right scanner. thanks
 
#22 ·
Hey guys I'm having multiple problems with my 06 Z right now. Bought it used about 10k miles ago. Noticed an electrical problem awhile back and now I'm ticking in he morning and get a wierd whine when I get on it alittle (3000rpm and up). Im not talking gas'n it just pullin out quickly maybe puttin it to 3500k. Took it to nissan and they are pretending everything is fine and that they cant figure out my electrical problem (Im guessing because I have a warranty). So Id like to be able to go in with a list of codes in hand.. but It says doing this check could clear codes also so if I get the code and then take it to the dealer will it be cleared and they wont be able to get it???? Could it also give them a reason to screw with me on my warranty??? Thanks guys.
 
#24 ·
A lot of auto parts places will scan your car and give you the codes for free - a lot easier than this method IMHO. Is your SES light on? What was/is your electrical problem?
 
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