Tires (FAQ)

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350Z Specific

What pressure should I keep my tires at?

Nissan recommends tires should be kept at 35 psi. I have heard that this applies to whatever size rim/tire you use. You should never fill the tire to the max psi, this leave no room for expansion when it heats up and could lead to catastrophic results.

Tires Size Combos That Work

To keep the TCS/VDC in the 350Z happy, the back tire must be taller than the front.

This table is a list of reported working combinations

Front	Rear	Width Difference	Diameter Difference	Revs per Mile Difference	Notes
225/50R17	235/50R17	.39	.39	-11.95	Stock
245/45R17	255/45R17	.39	.36	-11.20
225/45R18	245/45R18	.79	.71	-21.31	Stock
245/40R18	265/40R18	.78	.63	-19.34
245/40R18	275/40R18	1.18	.94	-28.51	Nismo
245/35R19	275/35R19				19x8.5F 19x9.5R

Tire Specifications

Tire Sizing Label

Passenger Tire sizing is typically displayed as:

P215/65R15 89H

The "P" stands for "P-Metric" or "Passenger". This means that it is a North American tire sizing designation. European tires typically don't have the "P" attached to the size. Tires with higher ply ratings will generally start with "LT" which stands for "Light Truck". This indicates the tire is an LT metric and will always have a Load Range indicated. It is important to note this for vehicles that call for LT metric tires. Never substitute a P metric tire for an LT metric tire, even if all the other dimensions are the same.
The "215" is the width of a tire, also known as the "section width". This is the width of the tire in millimeters at its widest point from sidewall to sidewall when mounted on the recommended rim width. The actual tire width can vary depending on the rim width it is mounted on.
The "65"is known as the Aspect Ratio. It is calculated by dividing the section height by the section width and multiplying by 100. (In this example, the sidewall will be 65% of 215)
The "R" stands for Radial, meaning it has a radial construction. Radial tires have ply cords that extend to the beads and are laid at 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread, the carcass being stabilized by a circumferential belt. Other possibilities include "B" for belted construction and "D" for diagonal construction. This means the ply cords extend to the beads and are laid at alternate angles less than 90 degrees to the centerline of the tread.
The "15" stands for the diameter of the wheel in inches. This is the exact size that this tire will fit. There are some older rims called "TRX" which are metric measurements like 390. You CAN NOT mix TRX rims with regular tires or vise-versa.
The "89" is the load index
The "H" is the speed symbol.

Speed Rating

The speed rating of any tire is a measurement of the top safe speed the tire can carry a load under specified conditions. It is also an indication of how the tire will handle at lower speeds. A higher rated tire will give you better traction and improved steering response even at 50mph.

Below is a listing of common speed ratings:

Q = 99 MPH, 160km/h
S = 112 MPH, 180km/h
T = 118 MPH, 190km/h
U = 124 MPH, 200km/h
H = 130 MPH, 210km/h
V = 149 MPH, 240km/h
Z = 149 MPH, 240km/h and over
W = 168 MPH, 270km/h
Y = 186 MPH, 300km/h

It is not recommended to downgrade your tires to a lower speed rating than of the OEM tires that came with your vehicle at the time of purchase. Doing so can effect the handling of the car, and in an emergency situation that can be dangerous. Also, never mix tires with different speed ratings on your vehicle.

Sidewall Markings

The M+S (also displayed as M&S or M-S) indicates the tire has all season capabilities. You will find this on almost all all season and winter tires. Summer tires will not have this designation. For a tire to get this designation, it must have a specified tread-to-void ratio, however it does not mean that the tire has passed any actual tests for it effectiveness in severe conditions.
indicates a Severe Snow Conditions rating. Tires bearing this symbol will provide snow performance superior to tires only bearing the M+S symbol. These are the safest tires for any kind of winter driving. Some ski resorts will not even let you up their mountain if you do not have this symbol on your tires.
DOT stands for Department of Transportation. The 10, 11 or 12 digit code appearing after the DOT designation gives information such as the week and year the tire was produced, as well as the manufacturer, plant, tire line, and size. The first 2 characters designate the tire's manufacturer and plant code. The third, fourth and fifth characters, are the tire size code. The last three or four numbers (4 numbers for years after 2000) are when the tire was manufactured. The first two digits of the date code represent the week and the last 1 or 2 digits represent the year.
Maximum Inflation Pressure is the highest inflation pressure that the tire can withstand. This is not, however, the recommended inflation pressure. Inflation pressures should never be below the recommended pressure or above the maximum pressure branded on the sidewall.

Sidewall Descriptions

Below is a quick legend to notations describing the appearance of the tire's sidewall.

Sidewall Marking	Meaning
BCS	BLACK CIRCUMFERENCIAL SERRATION
BL	BLACK LETTERS
BSL	BLACK SERRATED LETTERS
BSB	BROKEN SERRATED BAND
ENWL	EXTRA NARROW WHITE LETTERS
ROBL	RAISED OUTLINED BLACK LETTERS
OWL	OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
OBL	OUTLINED BLACK LETTERS
OGL	OUTLINED GOLD LETTERS
ORBL	OUTLINED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
ORWL	OUTLINED RAISED WHITE LETTERS
OWL	OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
RBL	RAISED BLACK LETTERS
RWL	RAISED WHITE LETTERS
RRBL	RECESSED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
SBL	SERRATED BLACK LETTERS
SRBL	SERRATED RAISED BLACK LETTERS
SOWL	SLANTED OUTLINED WHITE LETTERS
SVSB	SLANTED VERTICAL SERRATED BAND
VSB	VERTICAL SERRATED BAND
WL	WHITE LETTERS
WS	WHITE STRIPE
WW	WHITE WALL

Uniform Tire Quality Grading

The Uniform Tire Quality Grading rating is a quality rating system developed by the American Department of Transportation. It is designed to tell consumers the relative performance of passenger tires (but does not apply to winter tires).

Below is an example of a UTQG Rating:

150A B

The "150" indicates the treadwear rating
The "A" indicates traction
The "B" indicates temperature

The Treadwear rating is based on a wear test performed on a 400 mile government test course covering specified sections of public roads in Texas. A group of not more than 4 test vehicles travels the course in a convoy so that all tires experience the same conditions. Tread groove depths of the tires being tested are measured after each 800 miles. The same procedure is followed for a set of "control" or "course monitoring tires" Upon the completion of the 7200 mile test, the rating results of both tires are compared, and the tires being tested are assigned a treadwear rating according to government standards. This number can be used to compare between tires. In the above example, this tire rated 150 should last 1/2 as long as a tire rated 300. The relative performance of tires depends upon the actual conditions of their use and may be significantly different from the norm due to differences in road characteristics and climate.

The Traction ratings are AA, A, B, and C, from highest to lowest. This measurement indicates a tires ability to stop in a straight line on wet pavement. The rating is based on a 40mph test where the brakes are "locked up" on wet asphalt and wet concrete surfaces. It's important to remember that this rating does not indicate the tires ability to resists hydroplaning, and do not apply to cornering traction.

Temperature ratings are determined by running tires on an indoor roadwheel test under specified conditions. Successive 30 minute runs are made in 5mph increments starting at 75mph and continuing until the tires fails. Tires with an A rating must withstand at least 114mph, B at least 99mph, and C at least 85mph. These measurements indicate the tire's ability to sustain high temperatures which often cause tires to wear away quickly or in extreme conditions lead to sudden tire failure.

General Questions

Mixing Tires

Generally tires should not be mixed on any vehicle. To receive maximum safety and performance it is preferable to keep every tire on a vehicle identical in size, brand, model, rating etc. One of the only exceptions is if the front and rear wheels are different like on all Porsche's and other high performance vehicles.

Tire Storage

Storing Winter Tires

The best place to store winter tires is in a cool, dry location. (Basement, or possibly a garage). You can lay them down flat, stacked on top of each other no taller than 4 high. This offers the most support and should eliminate any fitting problems the following fall. We also recommend that you return to the store/dealer from where you purchased your tires from and ask for storage bags. This will protect the tires from natural ozone in the air which can cause tire rubber to dry and crack. Wrap each tire individually and stack them. Stored tires should be kept away from electric motors or welders as these produce ozone which will damage the rubber over time.

Air Pressure

Are your tires set at the optimum inflation? Chances are they are anywhere from 8psi to 18psi less than recommended. The most common way of damaging tires is improper inflation. Low air pressure causes tires to experience irregular treadwear as well as poor vehicle handling and traction. Under inflated tires can build up excessive heat and blow out without warning.

Keeping your tires set at the manufacturer's recommended pressure is one of the easiest ways of saving gasoline, increasing tire treadlife, and ensuring safety. An Arizona Energy Office Report notes if your tires are inflated to 24psi, and you increase the air pressure to 32psi, your fuel mileage should increase by 3 miles per gallon (an average increase of 10%!)

Always check your air pressure and make adjustments when the tires are cold (tires have not been driven for 2 hours). Air pressure should be checked bi-weekly at the very least. This is important because as outside temperatures change, so does tire air pressure. A 10 degree drop in temperature can reduce tire pressure by 1psi. That means if you set your pressures in the July and don't check them again until December, you could have lost several psi, decreasing fuel mileage and causing pre-mature tire wear. Also remember to check your spare tire for loss of air.

If you are unsure how to use an air pressure gauge and hose, your local tire shop should be willing to show you the correct procedure. Always use a good quality tire pressure gauge that is not on a hose. The tire gauges built into the air hoses at your local garage have generally not been maintained and can not be trusted to be accurate.

Note, air pressures can be Ã¢â‚¬Å“tunedÃ¢â‚¬Â, however you should NEVER exceed the maximum pressure branded on the tireÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s sidewall, and NEVER set pressures lower than recommended in the vehicleÃ¢â‚¬â„¢s owners manual. Also, if you have altered your tire size from original, then the minimum pressure may need to be adjusted. Consult a rim/tire professional for correct pressures.

Tread Wear Indicator

As your tires wear down, their ability to grip the road decreases. Each tire has what are known as wear bars. These appear at various points around the tire as bars running through the tread design from one side of the tire to the other. When your tires are legally worn out (2/32") the tread will be at the same level as the tread wear indicators and they will be easily visible. Usually before the tire gets to this point, they will begin to feel unsafe. If that is the case, do not wait for them to get to the wear bars. Just because the tread depth is not as low as the tread wear bar, does not mean it is safe.

Tire Rotation

Because each tire on your car typically supports a different amount of weight, and your driving patterns will typically wear out one tire faster than the others, it's important to rotate your tires every 5000 to 8000 miles. Rotation patterns differ depending on what kind of vehicle you drive. The best place to check is in your vehicle's owners manual. If you can not find what you are looking for, below are some diagrams showing you the most common patterns.

Of course, if your vehicle has different sizes of tires from front to back, or if your tires are directional, these may not work. Consult a professional if you are still not sure.

Alignment

Vehicle alignment is one of the most important factors in not only vehicle care, but tire care. Improper alignment on either the front or rear wheels can result in unusual tread wear, damage to your suspension, and unusual handling for the car. Wheel alignments should be performed every time you install a new set of tires, and any time you experience an impact such as a large pot hole, curb, or other obstacle. For maintenance purposes, alignment should be checked every 30,000 km (about 18,700 miles).

There are several alignment types, including both two and four wheel alignment. Four wheel alignment is always recommended, but some vehicles are not able to have the rear alignment adjusted. Consult with an alignment specialist you trust to find out what's best for your car.

Warning signs that you might need an alignment are your car pulling to one side or another, and irregular tire wear.

Puncture Repairs

A puncture to any area of a tire's tread will affect performance and safety, and therefore must be immediately attended to through either replacement of the tire (spare or new tire) or a patch. Any patch that is applied to a tire must be applied to both the outer part of the tire (tread) and the inner part of the tire. The reason for this is that the rubber on each side is very different (inside is made of halobutyl rubber meant for holding air, while the outside is a harder durable rubber primarily designed for traction). A good tire repair can only be made if the tire is removed from the rim (wheel) and inspected carefully for any hidden damage. Only straight through holes, 3/16" or smaller diameter may be repaired, when no secondary damage has ocured.

Noise and Vibration Problems

Below are the most common (but not the only) causes of noise and vibration problems:

Tire / wheel assembly is out of balance
No hub centric rings on aftermarket wheels >Buy Hub Centric Rings
Incorrect mounting hardware for aftermarket wheels
Tire is poorly seated on the rim
Irregular tire wear
Out of round rim
Out of round tire

Do not ignore apparent impacts, pulling, or vibration. This could be an indicator of tire damage as much as mechanical problems that should be inspected by a professional. If there is a problem with your tires and the way they have been installed they will most likely begin to shake and vibrate your vehicle at between 50 and 65 mph.

When do you need to Replace Tires?

Tires are typically replaced when their natural lifespan has come to an end. There are however any number of factors that can affect this including storage, temperature, surfaces they are driven on, how aggressive of a driver you are, punctures, etc.

The usual recommendation for replacing tires is when they no longer feel safe to the driver. You can see when they are legally worn out using the tread wear indicator. A typical set of tires under normal driving conditions will last approximately 40 000 miles or 64 000 km. Some tires of-course are designed for much longer, even up to 80 000 miles or 128 000 kilometers.

Mounting and Balancing

When mounting wheels & tires on to the vehicle, ensure the following checks are made:

Wheels are not damaged in any way
There is no dirt or oily build up between the hub and the wheel
Lugs are properly torqued
Both tire beads are securely mounted
Any retaining clips on the brake drums are removed

Tires are manufactured to close tolerances, however as they wear their mass can become unevenly distributed, negatively effecting the original balance. The most common signs of unbalanced tires are vibration problems. These can affect the speed, handling and mileage of your vehicle. Balancing is done by a computer that spins the wheel / tire assembly, senses heavy spots, and gives a location for the technician to apply weight to counter the heavy spots. The best type of balance is a dynamic balance, and this should be performed whenever possible. (Some rim designs will not allow this type of balance and you would have to settle for a static balance)

Tire Weight is something to consider

Often we talk about wheel weight without considering tire weight, as if it is fixed and unchangeable or as though it does not matter. With the weight of your tires acting like a flywheel on each corner, they can make a big difference in performance. Most tire companies publish the tire weight on they're websites. The Bridgestone Potenza RE040 seems to be quite heavy in its class.

Size	Weight
Bridgestone Potenza RE040 225/50R17	28 lbs.
Bridgestone Potenza RE040 235/50R17	29 lbs.
Bridgestone Potenza RE040 225/45R18	27 lbs.
Bridgestone Potenza RE040 245/45R18	32 lbs.

How long should my tires last?

So do you want to get a rough idea of how long your tires are expected to last? It's simple, if you look up the specs of a set of tires you will see that it has a UTQG tread wear rating. OK, all you have to do it multiply the tread rating by 72 and you get a rough estimate of how long the manufacturer says the tires will last. It's that simple.

Example:

A Bridgestone Potenza RE040 has a treadwear rating of 140. 140 X 72 yields 10,080 miles.

Keep in mind that treadwear testing is done under ideal conditions, with tire inflation and wheel alignment all being adjusted to minimize tread wear. As the saying goes, actual mileage may vary.

To clarify, this formula is not to calculate the actual mileage you will get. There are too many variables for any equation to acurately calculate that. The formula is simply designed to translate the cryptic UTQG treadwear rating number into standard miles.

By the NHTSA designed treadwear test, the calibrated test tire (with a treadwear rating of 100) lasts 7,200 miles. A tire with a treadwear rating of 200 is said to last twice as long, or 14,400 miles. So there you have it.

Wheel and Tire Definitions

Air Pressure: the measure of the force exterted by the air inside a tire, measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascals (kPa)
Alignment: refers to the correct angle settings of suspension components - the 3 alignment settings are caster, camber and toe.
Aspect Ratio: the relationship between a tire's section height and its section width. It is calculated by dividing the section height by the section width. When the section height is half of the section width, the aspect ration is 50. In a tire size description, it would be the 50 in P195/50R15. It is also called the tire's profile or the series.
Asymmetric: tires that have differing tread patterns on each half of the tire
Balance: equal distribution of the weight of a tire and wheel. If a tire & wheel is not balanced it can lead to vibrations or uneven wear. For balancing, weights are attached to the wheel to compensate for uneven weight distribution.
Backspacing: also called rearspacing, it is the distance from the mounting pad to the back edge of the rim. This is different than wheel offset.
Bead: the part of the tire in contact with the wheel flange. It is made of high tensile steel wires shaped to fit the rim and hold the tire on the wheel. The steel wires are wrapped in woven fabric and held in place by the plies.
Bead Seat: the edge of the rim that creates a seal between the tire bead and the wheel
Belted Bias Tires: tires constructed similar to bias tires, but with reinforcing belts between the casing plies and the tread.
Belts: rubber coated cords located between the plies and the tread. They help reinforce the tread, as well as help the tire keep its shape against such forces as: tire inflation pressure, centrifugal force, cornering and braking. These cords are made from such materials as steel, fiberglass, radon, nylon, polyester or other material.
Bias Tire: a tire that is constructed with plies laid out in alternating directions in angles about 30-40 degrees to the center line of the tire. The plies form a criss-cross pattern.
Bolt Pattern: the arrangement of the bolt holes on a wheel. A 4 bolt wheel with 100mm between opposite bolt holes would be written as 4/100. Some wheels have more than one bolt pattern on the same wheel to accomodate multiple fitments.
Camber: the angle of the centerline of a tire and wheel relative to completely vertical.
Cast: wheels that are made from liquid metal being poured into a mold. Low pressure casting involves pouring into a mold, while counter pressure casting involves sucking the metal into the mold like a vaccuum. The counter pressure technique reduces impurities making the wheel much stronger than a low pressure cast rim.
Caster: the angle between the vehicle's steering pivot axis and completely vertical.
Centerbore: the center hole in the wheel that centers the wheel on the hub of the car. Since most wheels are mass produced, they have a large center bore to accommodate several different vehicles. If this is the case, it is recommended that you use a hub ring. Hub rings are hard plastic or metal ring that fits between the wheel and the vehicle. This centers the wheel perfectly on the hub ensuring that there is no run out when the wheel is installed on to the vehicle. Without hub rings it is possible to get vibrations even if the wheel / tire assembly is perfectly balanced.
Chafer: abrasion resistant rubber coated material to help prevent the tire's beads from rim damage and chafing.
Cold Inflation Pressure: the measure of air pressure of a tire that is not warm from driving (less than 1 mile or standing for at least 3 hours)
Compound: the materials used in the construction of the tire's rubber. The main materials used are rubber, carbon black, plasticizers, curing materials and ozone retardants. Different compounding formulas are used to achieve different tire characteristics such as: heat resistance, increased traction, increased treadwear, cut resistance, cold resistance, etc.
Cord: strands of nylon, rayon, polyester, steel or fiberglass that make up the plies & belts of the tire. The strength of a tire & its load carrying capacity is determined by the strength of the cords.
Crown: the center section of the tire's tread
Curb Guard: extra rubber running around the sidewall of a tire. It is there to protect the side of the tire and the wheel face from any damage that may come as a result of hitting a curb.
DOT: stands for Department of Transportation. The 10 digit code appearing after the DOT designation gives information such as the week and year the tire was produced, as well as the manufacturer, plant, tire line, and size.
Footprint: the area of the loaded tire's tread that is in contact with the road. This is also called the contact patch.
Forged: Considered to be the best wheel manufacturing technique, forging allows for the compression of an aluminum billet (one solid piece of aluminum) into an aluminum wheel using over 13 million pounds of pressure combined with heat. This produces a wheel that is both stronger and lighter then your standard aluminum wheel.
Grooves: the space between two tread ribs of a tire
Hub Centric: a wheel with a centerbore made to match up with a vehicle's hub diameter.
Hub Centric Rings (Hubrings): hard plastic or aluminum rings mounted on a vehicle's hub before the wheel. They ensure the wheel is perfectly centered on the vehicle's hub. Without hub rings, there is a possibility of getting a vibration even if the wheel & tire assembly is perfectly balanced.
Hydroplaning: when a tire loses traction as a result of water on the road. The water accumulates under the tire's footprint and causes the tire to lift from the road surface. Vehicle speed, tread pattern and water depth all affect hydroplaning.
Load Index: a number used to represent the maximum weight a tire can support. The index number corresponds to the actual load carrying capacity. Truck tires use a different system incorporating letter codes to establish a Ply Rating. >More Info
M+S: a sidewall marking indicating that the tire is approved for Mud & Snow use. This approval is made by the RMA (Rubber Manufacturers Association).
Mixing Tires: combining different tire sizes or tire models. This is not recommended as not all 4 tires will respond the same and it may cause unpredictable handling. Some performance vehicles do come stock with different front and rear tire sizes.
Mounting: installing tires onto wheels
Offset: The offset of a wheel is the distance from the mounting surface of the wheel to the true centerline of the rim. A positive offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is positioned in front of the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This in effect brings the tire in to the fender well more. Conversely, a negative offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This will cause the tire to stick out away from the vehicle.
Overinflation: when a tire is inflated more than the recommended vehicle air pressure. This might be done for better performance but has negative consequences including: a less comfortable ride, damage to the tires and stress on the suspension.
P-Metric System: a system for specifying tire sizes using the treadwidth (millimeters), the aspect ratio, type or tire construction and the rim diameter (inches). The sizes are written as such: P195/50R15
Plus Sizing: changing from the original stock tire size of your vehicle. Plus sizing your wheel & tire combination was designed to enhance vehicle performance and looks by allowing fitment of larger diameter rims and lower profile tires. The theory is that while making these changes, you keep the overall tire diameter within 3% of the original equipment tires. This is important because larger variances can cause problems with transmission shift points which can decrease fuel mileage. It can also confuse braking system computers which can even lead to brake failure.
Ply: layers of cord fabric that give a tire its strength. They are situated between the tire tread and the innerliner, and they run from bead to bead. These cords are rubber coated.
Profile: refer to aspect ratio.
PSI: the most common measurement unit for tire pressure. It stands for pounds per square inch and it measures the force exterted by the air inside a tire.
Radial Tire: tires built with plies running perpendicular (90 degrees) across the crown of the tire. To strengthen the tread, these tires require belt plies going circumferentially around the tire.
Retreading: applying new tread to a used tire casing. This practice is common among medium & heavy trucks.
Ribs: rubber sections of the tread that run around the circumference of the tire
Rim Width: the measurement between the flanges of a rim
Rotation: moving a vehicle's tires from left to right and from front to rear. This is done in a set pattern and should be done periodically. Its purpose is to prevent uneven tire wear and to extend treadlife.
Section Width: the distance between the sidewalls at their widest point of an inflated tire not under load.
Series: refer to aspect ratio.
Shoulder: the outer edge of the tire tread where it meets the sidewall
Sidewall: the side portion of a tire between the tread and the bead. >More Info
Sipes: small slits in a tire's tread that help push water away from the crown of the tire for improved wet traction. They also provide biting edges for ice and snow traction.
Speed Rating: a letter that identifies a tire's high speed durability. A tire's capabilities are tested at preset speeds and the results of these tests determine the tire's speed rating. Speed Ratings include: Q, S, T, U, H, V, Z, W, Y >More Info
Tire Placard: a label on a vehicle that identifies the vehicle's stock tire size and its recommended tire air pressure. This label is often found on the inside of the vehicle's door.
Toe: the difference between the distance between the front left & right tire and the distance between the rear left & right tire. Toe-In means that the front of the tires are closer together than the rear. Toe-Out means that the rear of the tires are closer together than the front.
Tread Blocks: individual sections of the tread separated by lateral grooves
Tread Depth: the distance from the top of the tread to the grooves in a tire. This measurement is taken at the centerline of a tire and is measured in thiry-secondths of an inch.
Tread Pattern: the arrangment of grooves, blocks, sipes and channels on the tread.
Tread Shaving: shaving some of the tread from a tire for optimal performance and durability in racing applications.
Tread Wear: also called the tread life, it is the measure of how long a tire lasts. It is measured in miles or kilometers.
Tread Wear Indicators: narrow rubber bars built into the tread grooves that define the tire's legal wear out point. Also called the wear bars, they are even with the tread when 2/32" of tread is left and then the tires are ready to be replaced. >More Info
Treadwidth: the width of a tire tread, normally measured in millimeters. In 195/50R15 the treadwidth is 195mm.
Underinflation: a tire with less than the recommended air pressure for a given load. This may lead to tire rollover and deflection.
UTQG: The Uniform Tire Quality Grading rating is a quality rating system developed by the American Department of Transportation. It is designed to tell consumers the relative performance of passenger tires (but does not apply to winter tires). >More Info

Wheel Weights : weights attached to a wheel to balance a tire & wheel. The weights can be on the inside or outside of the wheel and can be clipped, taped or self-adhered to the wheel.

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