Kick Panel Fiberglassing 2

From Nissan 350Z & 370Z Wiki

My thoughts were that it had everything to do with the fact that my tweeters are in the factory sailpanel location and the 6" is in the factory door location (2+ feet apart from one another). I knew there would be many risks associated with separating the two components--phasing concerns, etc. So instead of start completely over I decided to build a pair of custom kickpanels for a pair of Focal 5" Polykevlar components, and to run them in parallel with the Diamonds off the same two front channels of the JL 500/5. 100 watts RMS to the Diamonds and the Focals, in parallel with eachother. Since the Focals are a bit more efficient, they will (and do) play a little louder than the Diamonds, but I must say overall I am very happy with the results. The kickpanels are giving me the imaging and midrange I want, and the Diamonds are giving me some bass up front and the Diamond silk tweeters in the sail panels (set to -2db) are raising the sound stage just enough that the vocals sound as if they are in front of me--not at my feet. |}

Procedure

Here's how I got there. I started with some 1/2 inch MDF from Home Depot, and measured and drew the speaker panels--two layers for each side to accomodate the depth of the grill/speaker for a surface/flush mount. Next, I cut each part out with a scroll saw, and the help of a drill to get the saw started in the inner holes. Glue the tops to the bottoms with wood glue and clamps, and let dry 24 hrs.

Next, you want to glue the speaker panels to the kickpanels with some appropriate spacers. This will take some measuring and sanding/chimmying to get the angles the way you want them. Ultimately you want the speakers aimed toward the gallery of the vehicle and up. (I recommend you point them at the dome light). OK next is the FUN/ INCREDIBLY F***ING messy part. You need a few cans of this stuff. (Fiberglass bondo) I bought at Home Depot. OK you mix this stuff with the accelerator/hardener that comes with it, and then you have about 10-15 minutes to work with it before it becomes solid. This stuff is MESSY. I cannot overemphasize this. I have a shed in the back of my house with a large workbench I used for this whole project. If you do not have such a place . . . just make sure you are far away from anything you don't want permanently fiberglassed. Spackel the stuff in the gaps . . . let completely set overnight, and then Sand, Sand, Sand, until as smooth as a baby's bottom.

Finishing

Next finish the surface however you like. You can gel coat if you have skills/experience in this area. You can have it professionally painted to match your Z's color. You can glue vinyl to it. (If you do I recommend a vinyl spray glue--it comes in a large spray paint-like can).

Here's what I did. First I took the fuse box panel cover from the driver's side kick panel to Home Depot. I had them make me some paint to match this color. They have a computer color scanner thing to do this--no charge. Just pay for the paint.

Then I bought this can of "Stone Accents" stuff from Home Depot. It comes in a spray paint can, but when you spray it . . . it comes out textured--like stone. It dries in 15 minutes, like spray paint, but it dries harder than paint. I like it. I used it once before to stone accent a teracota pot for this large plant. Anyway, after that I just painted over it with the color-matched paint. Don't use a paint brush--you'll get brush strokes. If you have an air brush--use that. If not, then Home Depot also sells these spray guns--in the spray paint section of the store. They are exactly like using cans of spray paint, only there's a little glass bottle at the bottom that you fill with whatever paint you like. You'll have to dilute the paint 50/50 to get a good result. If you're using latex paint--50% water 50% paint. Some experience using spray paint helps get a good result--several light coats -- not one heavy one. You don't want drips!!!