From Nissan 350Z & 370Z Wiki
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350Z Specific Questions
What offsets for rims will fit my
350Z?
THIS SECTION IS NOT COMPLETELY ACCURATE!! EXAMPLE 19X10.5
WITH +22 OFFSET FIT JUST FINE ON THE REAR.
Front
- 7.0 +5/+50 215/225
- 7.5 +11/+50 215/225/235
- 8.0 +18/+47 225/235/245
- 8.5 +22/+40 235/245
- 9.5 +22/+35 245
Rear
- 8.0 +7/+50 225/235
- 8.5 +13/+50 235/245/255
- 9.0 +19/+47 245/255/265
- 9.5 +20/+40 255/265/275
- 10.5 +22/+35 265/275
Factory Wheel Sizes
For more information350Z OEM Wheel
Specifications
Lug Nuts
Stock lug nuts are chrome acorn style M12 x 1.25 with a
21mm head
Lug Torque
The Nissan Factory Service Manual suggest 73-93ft-lbs
(foot pounds) for the OEM wheel lug torque.
OEM Bolt Pattern
The 350Z wheel bolt pattern is: 5/114.3
- "5" indicates the number of holes in the wheel for the bolts to
enter and mount the wheel onto the car.
"114.3" indicates the diameter of the bolt circle measured in
millimeters (or inches). A special tool is usually required to
measure bolt circle for a 5 bolt pattern. Imagine a circle running
through the centers of each bolt hole. You would measure from the
center of one bolt hole to the imaginary circle that lays between
the opposite two bolt holes. See the following diagram:
Wheel Stud
Length40mm
General
Wheel and Tire
Calculators
- These links answer alot of the more common questions concerning
wheels and tires. This is from Discount tire website FAQ
Offset
The offset of a wheel is the distance from the mounting surface
of the wheel to the true centerline of the rim. A positive offset
means the mounting surface of the wheel is positioned in front of
the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This in effect
brings the tire in to the fender well more. Conversely, a negative
offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true
centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This will cause the tire to
stick out away from the vehicle.
To compare the effects of changing the offset and width of your
wheels use the Wheel Offset Calculator
- Zero Offset
- The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the
wheel.
- Positive
- The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of
the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front
wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.
- Negative
- The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of
the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative
offset.
- If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the
handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel
changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to
stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be
split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this
won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different
vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our
sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.
Bolt Patterns
Each wheel has a different bolt pattern, and some wheels even
have 2 different bolt patterns which allow it to be mounted on a
wider range of vehicles.
Most Bolt Patterns are represented in the following manner:
4/100
- The "4" indicates the number of holes in the wheel for the
bolts to enter and mount the wheel onto the car.
- The "100" indicates the diameter of the bolt circle measured in
millimeters or inches. 4 & 6 bolt wheels are measured from the
center of one bolt hole to the center of the bolt hole directly
across from it. On a 5 bolt pattern, it is a bit trickier to
measure without special tools. Imagine a circle running through the
centers of each bolt hole. You would measure from the center of one
bolt hole to the imaginary circle that lays between the opposite
two bolt holes.
Plus Sizing
Plus sizing your wheel & tire combination was designed to
enhance vehicle performance and looks by allowing fitment of larger
diameter rims and lower profile tires. The theory is that while
making these changes, you keep the overall tire diameter within 3%
of the original equipment tires. This is important because larger
variances can cause problems with transmission shift points which
can decrease fuel mileage. It can also confuse braking system
computers which can even lead to brake failure.
Here's the rule of thumb for "plus sizing":
Plus 1:'
- Increase section width by 10mm
- Decrease aspect ratio by 10 points
- Increase rim diameter by 1 inch
Plus 2:'
- Increase section width by 20mm
- Decrease aspect ratio by 20 points
- Increase rim diameter by 2 inches.
This is not exact, but it will usually get you in the right
ballpark. We always recommend consulting with the people you are
purchasing the wheels and tires from to ensure fitment.
Wheel Care
It is important to keep your wheels clean at all times. Your
brakes will cause the wheels to heat up, and this heat in turn can
cause any dirt or brake dust to cook in to the clear coat. If this
happens, there's not a lot you can do besides having the wheels
refinished. Protect your investment and keep your wheels clean!
Below are some simple instructions on how take care of your
wheels:
- Do not use household cleaners or other detergents to clean your
wheels. The best wheel cleaning solution is a mild soap and water
solution (what ever you would trust on the paint of your car).
Clean with a soft, un-abrasive cloth. Only on polished wheels can
you use aluminum wheel polish. If you use this polish on chrome,
painted, or clear coated wheels, you will only scratch or dull the
finish.
- Do not use steam cleaners in automatic car washes.
- Do not use any tire cleaners on your wheels.
- Clean wheels when they are cool. Heat can effect the soap,
causing it to dry on the wheel and become difficult to rinse
off.
- Clean one wheel at a time. This also prevents the soap from
drying on to the wheel.
- After the wheels are clean and dry, apply a coat of soft paste
style wax to them. This will create a moisture barrier and help
ensure the finish lasts as long as possible.
Centerbore
This relates to the center hole in the wheel that centers the
wheel on the hub of the car. Since most wheels are mass produced,
they have a large center bore to accommodate several different
vehicles. If this is the case, it is recommended that you use a hub
ring. Hub rings are hard plastic or metal ring that fits between
the wheel and the vehicle. This centers the wheel perfectly on the
hub ensuring that there is no run out when the wheel is installed
on to the vehicle. Without hub rings it is possible to get
vibrations even if the wheel / tire assembly is perfectly
balanced.
Torque
All alloy wheels should be installed using a torque wrench. This
ensures that the wheels are not too tight or too loose. Check your
vehicle's manual for correct settings. When you install wheels for
the first time, you should re-torque wheels after about 100km to
150km (60 to 90 miles).
Alloy vs. Steel
The main differences between alloy and steel wheels lie in their
durability and strength. Most high-performance wheels are made of
an alloy and composed of aluminum, and other metallic substances.
By using alloy wheels, you not only improve the looks of your
vehicle but also the performance. The extra strength provides
longevity as well as effecting tire wear in a positive manner. The
weight reduction will improve steering response and handling, as
well as help improve acceleration and braking.
Hardware
The hardware holding your wheels to your car is an often
overlooked step when installing new rims. Most aftermarket wheels
require different wheel nuts / bolts than what was used on the
original equipment wheels. Wheel nuts and bolts have many different
seats (where the nut touches the wheel). The 3 most common are
acorn seat (conical), ball seat (radius), and mag shank seat. These
differences along with different lengths and diameters makes
hardware very confusing. Always check with the people who supplied
your wheels for the correct mounting hardware before trying to
install them on your vehicle..
Wheel Manufacturing
Wheel Construction
There is a good variety of ways of constructing wheels. Most
alloy wheels are made in either one, two or three piece
construction types. One piece is just what it says, a wheel made in
a mold as a single piece. Two piece wheels are made of two separate
pieces (center and barrel) that are usually welded or bolted
together. Three piece wheels are made of three separate pieces.
They have a center, and inside rim half, and an outside rim half.
They are bolted together using the highest quality fasteners.
Manufacturing method is very important in the overall quality
and performance of a wheel.
Gravity Casting
Gravity casting is the most basic process of pouring molten
aluminum into a mold utilizing the earth's gravity to fill the
mold. Gravity casting is a good method for casting designs that are
more visually oriented or when reducing weight is not a primary
concern. Since the process relies on gravity to fill the mold, the
aluminum is not as densely packed or has various air pockets, which
may increase the chances of pitting or stress cracks. In addition,
gravity cast wheels will have a higher weight to achieve the
required strength.
Low Pressure Casting
Low pressure casting uses positive pressure to move the molten
aluminum into th emold quicker and achieve a finished product that
has improved mechanical properties (more dense) over a gravity cast
wheel. Some companies offer wheels that are produced under a higher
pressure casting which involves special casting equipment, which in
turn creates a wheel that is lighter and stronger than a low
pressure comparison.
Tilt Die Casting
Tild die casting is a new process of casting wheels where the
mold is tilted to a near 90 degrees and then molten aluminum is
poured and the mold moves back to its original position. This
process minimizes the bubbling effect of aluminum and reduces air
pockets. To make it simpler... it's like pouring beer into a glass.
If you dump it in itll create foam (air pockets) but if you tilt
the cup it will have a lot less bubbles or foam. Due to high cost
of this type of molds, few factories, such as Merit Alloy/MRR
Design, utilize this state of the art technology to produce wheels.
Other brands, which use this technology, include,, Manaray,,
Venerdi,, and many more.
Forged
Forging is the process of forcing a solid billet of aluminum
between the forging dies under an extreme amount of pressure,
usually 8,000 to 10,000 tons. After being put under pressure, the
aluminum has a shape of a wheel before it's machined down in
detail. The results are a finished product that is very dense, very
strong and therefore can be very light. There are few companies
that still offer forged single piece wheels such as APP,
Centerline, Forgeline, Raceline, and Weld.
Semi-solid forging (SSF) is a process that heats a billet of
special alloy to an almost liquid state and then the aluminum is
forced into a mold at a very high rate. The finished product offers
mechanical properties very similar to a forged wheel without the
high production and tooling costs of a forged wheel. Currently only
SSR (Speed Start Racing) from Japan is licensed to used this
process for the production of wheels.
Multi Piece Wheels
Multi-piece wheels are usually two or three parts assembled
together to produce a finished wheel. The rim sections for
three-piece wheels are either roll formed or spun forged from
blocks of aluminum. Generally, three-piece rim sections offer the
ability to custom-tailor wheels for special applications that would
not be available otherwise. The rim sections are bolted to the
center and normally a sealant is applied in or on the assembley
area to seal the wheel.
This type of three-piece construction was originally developed
for racing in the early 1970s and has been used on cars ever since.
The original benefit of three-piece wheels was, in the event that
you damage part of a rim section, the rim section could be replaced
without having to replace the whole wheel. Multi-piece wheels can
use many different methods of manufacturing the center design, cast
and forged. Centers can be cast like single-piece wheels with
various details, contours and shapes. Brands like 5-Zigen, Brabus,
Maya, Maido, Lowenhart, Volk Racing, Racing Hart, and Lorinser use
cast centers.
Forged, lately, have been manufactured by taking a piece of
forged disk and having a CNC machine cut away at sections to create
the style of wheels. This process is not the same as forging the
center disk into shape, since the forged disks are cut into various
designs. The three-piece wheels are most popular in teh 18-inch and
larger diameters with widths as large as 13 inches in some
applications.
Two-Piece Wheels
The two-piece wheel design does not offer as wide a range of
custom-tailor applications that a three-piece wheel allows, however
they are common in the market. Some two-piece wheels have the
center bolted into a cast or cast/spun rim section and other
manufacturers press centers into spun rim sections and weld the
unit together. When BBS developed a new two-piece wheel to replace
the previous three-piece street wheel, they used the special
rim-rolling technology (orginally developed for racing wheels) to
give the rim section the weight and strength advantages similar to
a forged rim. On the high end of the two-piece wheel market, you
can find wheels using forged rims and forged centers. Since these
are only sold in small volumes, and due to the high development and
production costs associated with the forging process, they tend to
be on the high end of the price scale.
Wheel and Tire
Definitions
- Air Pressure
- the measure of the force exterted by the air inside a tire,
measured in pounds per square inch (psi) or kiloPascals (kPa)
- Alignment
- refers to the correct angle settings of suspension components -
the 3 alignment settings are caster, camber and toe.
- Aspect Ratio
- the relationship between a tire's section height and its
section width. It is calculated by dividing the section height by
the section width. When the section height is half of the section
width, the aspect ration is 50. In a tire size description, it
would be the 50 in P195/50R15. It is also called the tire's profile
or the series.
- Asymmetric
- tires that have differing tread patterns on each half of the
tire
- Balance
- equal distribution of the weight of a tire and wheel. If a tire
& wheel is not balanced it can lead to vibrations or uneven
wear. For balancing, weights are attached to the wheel to
compensate for uneven weight distribution.
- Backspacing
- also called rearspacing, it is the distance from the mounting
pad to the back edge of the rim. This is different than wheel
offset.
- Bead
- the part of the tire in contact with the wheel flange. It is
made of high tensile steel wires shaped to fit the rim and hold the
tire on the wheel. The steel wires are wrapped in woven fabric and
held in place by the plies.
- Bead Seat
- the edge of the rim that creates a seal between the tire bead
and the wheel
- Belted Bias Tires
- tires constructed similar to bias tires, but with reinforcing
belts between the casing plies and the tread.
- Belts
- rubber coated cords located between the plies and the tread.
They help reinforce the tread, as well as help the tire keep its
shape against such forces as: tire inflation pressure, centrifugal
force, cornering and braking. These cords are made from such
materials as steel, fiberglass, radon, nylon, polyester or other
material.
- Bias Tire
- a tire that is constructed with plies laid out in alternating
directions in angles about 30-40 degrees to the center line of the
tire. The plies form a criss-cross pattern.
- Bolt Pattern
- the arrangement of the bolt holes on a wheel. A 4 bolt wheel
with 100mm between opposite bolt holes would be written as 4/100.
Some wheels have more than one bolt pattern on the same wheel to
accomodate multiple fitments.
- Camber
- the angle of the centerline of a tire and wheel relative to
completely vertical.
- Cast
- wheels that are made from liquid metal being poured into a
mold. Low pressure casting involves pouring into a mold, while
counter pressure casting involves sucking the metal into the mold
like a vaccuum. The counter pressure technique reduces impurities
making the wheel much stronger than a low pressure cast rim.
- Caster
- the angle between the vehicle's steering pivot axis and
completely vertical.
- Centerbore
- the center hole in the wheel that centers the wheel on the hub
of the car. Since most wheels are mass produced, they have a large
center bore to accommodate several different vehicles. If this is
the case, it is recommended that you use a hub ring. Hub rings are
hard plastic or metal ring that fits between the wheel and the
vehicle. This centers the wheel perfectly on the hub ensuring that
there is no run out when the wheel is installed on to the vehicle.
Without hub rings it is possible to get vibrations even if the
wheel / tire assembly is perfectly balanced.
- Chafer
- abrasion resistant rubber coated material to help prevent the
tire's beads from rim damage and chafing.
- Cold Inflation Pressure
- the measure of air pressure of a tire that is not warm from
driving (less than 1 mile or standing for at least 3 hours)
- Compound
- the materials used in the construction of the tire's rubber.
The main materials used are rubber, carbon black, plasticizers,
curing materials and ozone retardants. Different compounding
formulas are used to achieve different tire characteristics such
as: heat resistance, increased traction, increased treadwear, cut
resistance, cold resistance, etc.
- Cord
- strands of nylon, rayon, polyester, steel or fiberglass that
make up the plies & belts of the tire. The strength of a tire
& its load carrying capacity is determined by the strength of
the cords.
- Crown
- the center section of the tire's tread
- Curb Guard
- extra rubber running around the sidewall of a tire. It is there
to protect the side of the tire and the wheel face from any damage
that may come as a result of hitting a curb.
- DOT
- stands for Department of Transportation. The 10 digit code
appearing after the DOT designation gives information such as the
week and year the tire was produced, as well as the manufacturer,
plant, tire line, and size.
- Footprint
- the area of the loaded tire's tread that is in contact with the
road. This is also called the contact patch.
- Forged
- Considered to be the best wheel manufacturing technique,
forging allows for the compression of an aluminum billet (one solid
piece of aluminum) into an aluminum wheel using over 13 million
pounds of pressure combined with heat. This produces a wheel that
is both stronger and lighter then your standard aluminum
wheel.
- Grooves
- the space between two tread ribs of a tire
- Hub Centric
- a wheel with a centerbore made to match up with a vehicle's hub
diameter.
- Hub Centric Rings (Hubrings)
- hard plastic or aluminum rings mounted on a vehicle's hub
before the wheel. They ensure the wheel is perfectly centered on
the vehicle's hub. Without hub rings, there is a possibility of
getting a vibration even if the wheel & tire assembly is
perfectly balanced.
- Hydroplaning
- when a tire loses traction as a result of water on the road.
The water accumulates under the tire's footprint and causes the
tire to lift from the road surface. Vehicle speed, tread pattern
and water depth all affect hydroplaning.
- Load Index
- a number used to represent the maximum weight a tire can
support. The index number corresponds to the actual load carrying
capacity. Truck tires use a different system incorporating letter
codes to establish a Ply Rating. >More Info
- M+S
- a sidewall marking indicating that the tire is approved for Mud
& Snow use. This approval is made by the RMA (Rubber
Manufacturers Association).
- Mixing Tires
- combining different tire sizes or tire models. This is not
recommended as not all 4 tires will respond the same and it may
cause unpredictable handling. Some performance vehicles do come
stock with different front and rear tire sizes.
- Mounting
- installing tires onto wheels
- Offset
- The offset of a wheel is the distance from the mounting surface
of the wheel to the true centerline of the rim. A positive offset
means the mounting surface of the wheel is positioned in front of
the true centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This in effect
brings the tire in to the fender well more. Conversely, a negative
offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is behind the true
centerline of the rim / tire assembly. This will cause the tire to
stick out away from the vehicle.
- Overinflation
- when a tire is inflated more than the recommended vehicle air
pressure. This might be done for better performance but has
negative consequences including: a less comfortable ride, damage to
the tires and stress on the suspension.
- P-Metric System
- a system for specifying tire sizes using the treadwidth
(millimeters), the aspect ratio, type or tire construction and the
rim diameter (inches). The sizes are written as such:
P195/50R15
- Plus Sizing
- changing from the original stock tire size of your vehicle.
Plus sizing your wheel & tire combination was designed to
enhance vehicle performance and looks by allowing fitment of larger
diameter rims and lower profile tires. The theory is that while
making these changes, you keep the overall tire diameter within 3%
of the original equipment tires. This is important because larger
variances can cause problems with transmission shift points which
can decrease fuel mileage. It can also confuse braking system
computers which can even lead to brake failure.
- Ply
- layers of cord fabric that give a tire its strength. They are
situated between the tire tread and the innerliner, and they run
from bead to bead. These cords are rubber coated.
- Profile
- refer to aspect ratio.
- PSI
- the most common measurement unit for tire pressure. It stands
for pounds per square inch and it measures the force exterted by
the air inside a tire.
- Radial Tire
- tires built with plies running perpendicular (90 degrees)
across the crown of the tire. To strengthen the tread, these tires
require belt plies going circumferentially around the tire.
- Retreading
- applying new tread to a used tire casing. This practice is
common among medium & heavy trucks.
- Ribs
- rubber sections of the tread that run around the circumference
of the tire
- Rim Width
- the measurement between the flanges of a rim
- Rotation
- moving a vehicle's tires from left to right and from front to
rear. This is done in a set pattern and should be done
periodically. Its purpose is to prevent uneven tire wear and to
extend treadlife.
- Section Width
- the distance between the sidewalls at their widest point of an
inflated tire not under load.
- Series
- refer to aspect ratio.
- Shoulder
- the outer edge of the tire tread where it meets the
sidewall
- Sidewall
- the side portion of a tire between the tread and the bead.
>More Info
- Sipes
- small slits in a tire's tread that help push water away from
the crown of the tire for improved wet traction. They also provide
biting edges for ice and snow traction.
- Speed Rating
- a letter that identifies a tire's high speed durability. A
tire's capabilities are tested at preset speeds and the results of
these tests determine the tire's speed rating. Speed Ratings
include: Q, S, T, U, H, V, Z, W, Y >More Info
- Tire Placard
- a label on a vehicle that identifies the vehicle's stock tire
size and its recommended tire air pressure. This label is often
found on the inside of the vehicle's door.
- Toe
- the difference between the distance between the front left
& right tire and the distance between the rear left & right
tire. Toe-In means that the front of the tires are closer together
than the rear. Toe-Out means that the rear of the tires are closer
together than the front.
- Tread Blocks
- individual sections of the tread separated by lateral
grooves
- Tread Depth
- the distance from the top of the tread to the grooves in a
tire. This measurement is taken at the centerline of a tire and is
measured in thiry-secondths of an inch.
- Tread Pattern
- the arrangment of grooves, blocks, sipes and channels on the
tread.
- Tread Shaving
- shaving some of the tread from a tire for optimal performance
and durability in racing applications.
- Tread Wear
- also called the tread life, it is the measure of how long a
tire lasts. It is measured in miles or kilometers.
- Tread Wear Indicators
- narrow rubber bars built into the tread grooves that define the
tire's legal wear out point. Also called the wear bars, they are
even with the tread when 2/32" of tread is left and then the tires
are ready to be replaced. >More Info
- Treadwidth
- the width of a tire tread, normally measured in millimeters. In
195/50R15 the treadwidth is 195mm.
- Underinflation
- a tire with less than the recommended air pressure for a given
load. This may lead to tire rollover and deflection.
- UTQG
- The Uniform Tire Quality Grading rating is a quality rating
system developed by the American Department of Transportation. It
is designed to tell consumers the relative performance of passenger
tires (but does not apply to winter tires). >More Info
Wheel Weights : weights attached to a wheel to balance a
tire & wheel. The weights can be on the inside or outside of
the wheel and can be clipped, taped or self-adhered to the
wheel.