From Nissan 350Z & 370Z Wiki
Block
-sleeve or or don't sleeve it, either way. I've pushed 2ltr Honda
sleeves to 700whp without any problems as long as it is built
right. If you're going to sleeve it, bore it out to 100mm or so, go
big. Larger bore, small quench area in combustion chamber of the
head makes for a better burn and less detonation on the weak part
of the pistons (outside near the valve reliefs). This will focus
the burn primarily on the center of the piston and allow more
aggressive tuning with the maps. Throw some cheap eagle rodsas I
don't see the H-beam design failing at the goal of less than 150whp
per cylinder, ARP bolts anywhere possible would be nice too.
Pistons (anything aftermarket as per your prefence, I like CP and
JE) 9:1 or even 8.5:1, again by you lowering the compression you
are sacrificing very little response and power compared to how much
more boost the lower pistons will take and timing you can run to
achieve REAL HP. I'm willing to bet a 9:1 compared to a 10:1 motor
running NA will have a very slight advantage but will be able to
hold more boost relevant to its compression ratio, it far
outweights the benefits when boosting. Some kind of extended oil
pans that they make which seem nice. ACL replacement bearings since
there cheaper then OEM ones most of the time. I would even consider
plugging the oil squitters if it was a race car (crank will have
less windage and high oil psi even though it doesn't need it) but
for the time being leave them since everyone here is a street racer
anyhow.
Head
-All ferrea or REV parts, the usual tit retainers and ss valves,
dual springs, stock guides are fine. Throw in some kind of cams
with heavy duration and lift. 272 maybe with 11-12mm of lift, we're
going big and the savengening effect works good on big boosted
higher rpm motors. Head design I would leave to the pros but ask
them not to open up the quench area so I can run loads more timing
with the 100mm pistons since they are quite a bit less likely to
detonate. I dont' have a clue about the little heads mods that are
specific to the vq35 as I haven't worked one yet, but most people
seem to think they get something from porting something out in
there, coolant passage?
Intake
-Throw out the damn restrictive flow box with call a lower and
upper intake manifold. Build a large simple plenum with large equal
length runners that connect directly to the head-someone already
makes one, but I forget who. Yes it moves the RPM band up but will
optimize things in the big picture. On the valve cover I would run
2 separate catch cans with fittings welded on to the valve cover
for large breathers. Maybe a drain back into the block somehow by
opening up one of the ports on the short block that connect to an
oil gallery. I swear on Honda motors this would relieve so much
windage pressure from the crank spinning at high rpms and would
allow for a much more reliable motor with out burning oil or
pushing oil out of the valve cover breathers.
Exhaust
-Can anyone tell me why no company make just a plain old turbo
manifold such as the greddy one for sale? Like maybe a simple
tubular one with a short nice burns style collector? Ideally I
would like a long tube equal length with a 3-1 for each bank of
cylinders but since no once has done that yet I would settle for a
simple greddy style mani. I would run dual gt35r turbos or maybe 2
gt30r's depending on the 25-35psi goal. Either way I don't see a
problem with hitting the 800whp goal with those twin turbo's. Run a
3-4in dp as quickly as possible once pass the firewall. Run open
dump pipe right there on both turbo's, it won't be that loud since
it is turbo or do this with a exhaust valve and continue back with
a normal dual exhaust, I'm a little more radical you could say. I
like as little exhaust as possible for best spool and output.
Intercooler
-I have looked and looked at big HP setups and have not concluded
the best way yet but I do like the idea of APS twin intercooler
where the charge pipes are short and direct to the IC and then to
the manifold. I would like a 30x12x5in core size though for the
kind of boost and temp drops. Maybe even one of the cheap ebay
specials for $200 with custom endtanks since we're experimenting.
Engine bay is a restriction without a doubt or cut the radiator
support and use a direct port from the cold side of the IC to the
intake manifold with a large 100mm throttle body running a GM 5 bar
map sensor instead of out drive by wire system.
Fuel
-seems to be easy enough, someone just did a nice kit with a
separate fuel reservior tank with an inline pump and an in-tank
pump. Or my favorite would be dual in-tank walbro's with a separate
return line. Some 1000cc's or 1600cc's should idle fine with decent
ECU. AEM where you at? UTEC=I'm not familiar enough with it to talk
of it's capabilities.
Ok, so there you have it, my opinion of on the subject of how to make big HP with high rpm band, I just hope I didn't come off like someone that thinks they know it all because I don't. But I do have experience with 700-1000whp Honda's and have been in the game since a cold air intake was the best mod on a B18c GSR motor. I just wanted to share my outlook of making HP that comes from different cars I have worked on and relating it to the VQ35 motor.
