350Z idling low and no power! - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
User Tag List

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-16-2016, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
350Z idling low and no power!

I have a 2004 Nissan 350Z 6 speed M/T and I noticed last night a loss in power when accelerating hard and also the car is idling very low around 500 rpms rather then 900-1000 like it used too. while driving and hitting the gas the rpms just jump very high but no acceleration. I also noticed this morning when starting the car cold that my A/C Belt was squeaking(its been squeaking for a while but only when the A/C was turned on) but this time I noticed it stops for 1-2 seconds and continues then stops for 1-2 seconds and so on... I am very new to cars in general and I have only been driving manual for a little over a month. Starting to learn a little about engine breaking and downshifting. I have been practicing my downshifts this last 2 weeks quite a lot and a little engine breaking to see how the car handles and feels while doing it.. I let out the clutch very slowly. The car feels very sluggish now and the clutch actually feels kind of stiff... wondering it the clutch is burned. When I bought the car it stated it had a new clutch. If anyone has any suggestions why the car is idling so low and feels like its gonna die please help.

P.S. the car has some aftermarket parts on listed below
Kinetix intake manifold
Headers
Injen cold air intake
Full exhaust with titanium tips
Eibach springs
Short Throw Shifter
Hotchkis front HD sway bar and links
New performance clutch
rondorfman1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-17-2016, 12:19 AM
Touring Member
 
dkmura's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 585
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
More than likely, your Z is in limp mode. Nissan engineered it into the ECM to prevent further damage to the engine when it detects a major fault. If your CEL is flashing, you may want to get codes pulled to determine what the problem(s) are.
dkmura is offline  
post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-18-2016, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
There is NO Check engine light on. I got my car back from the Nissan Dealership this afternoon and they told me the clutch was slipping which is what I researched and pretty much found out for myself. Luckily everything else on the car looks great! Though one thing they didn't check is the idle level. They stated there is too much after-market items on the car for them to check for it!? I was a little pissed because I thought I was paying them to check for everything... They told me that in order for them to check anything like that they would need to take off the aftermarket stuff and exchange it with stock??? Anyways... looks like I'm gonna be saving up my next paycheck for a Stage 1 clutch ;(
Any suggestions on a good performance Stage 1 clutch? and why my car might be idling low?

P.S. I noticed that when I picked it up today and the day i dropped the car off at the dealership the idle got a little better maybe even around 700-800rpm and not 500-600 like it seemed like before? Weird.
rondorfman1 is offline  
 
post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 08-19-2016, 11:14 AM
Touring Member
 
dkmura's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 585
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
That's pretty standard procedure for a Nissan dealership to follow. After all, they can't be certain all your aftermarket equipment was installed properly or the quality of the parts themselves. Even a pinhole casting error on the headers, or a misaligned intake can cause leaks that would affect idle. It's why using aftermarket mods is a double edged sword.

One question: why do you need a stage I clutch? It won't really add to the performance or durability of the Z. If your flywheel is in good shape, why not check into the costs of a Nissan Value pack clutch kit. They combine all the parts needed (except a flywheel) at a discount from buying them separately. At least it'd give you a comparison price-wise.
dkmura is offline  
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-14-2016, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
So its been about a month since my original post and I've been to the local Nissan dealership here in Chandler, AZ and I was told that my clutch is bad. So the issue was the clutch slipping, I ended up going with the JWT clutch and flywheel combo. I went to the local mechanic shop and had the clutch installed yesterday. The old clutch I had in there was completely gone and the flywheel had hot spots. It looks like it was the OEM clutch, had "nissan" on it so I didn't have any upgraded clutch on the car after all. I also did the pinion seal on the driveshaft because it was at the very beginning stages of leaking so I bought the pinion seal and had that done as well as the squeaky drive belts. No more of that annoying squeak at start up

Before I got the clutch replaced I drove the car a little with the slipping clutch. Maybe 10 miles total the whole time until replacement.. nothing much. Just to the shop and friends house and I noticed its starting to get harder to get into gears with the car on and off which I figured was because the bad clutch so I thought when I get it replaced everything will be 100%. I noticed when I got the car back that its really hard for me to change gears still... When I got home I turned off the car and slipped it into first gear but I feel like I almost had to force it in. I thought oh well Ill drive it a little more see if it goes away so later that day I drove about 3 miles to a friends house and again... very hard to change gears.. almost as if I have to force it in. When I got to his house I turned the car off and had hard time putting in 1st. I tried 2nd and nothing... wouldn't even slide into 2nd? 3rd, 4th and rest seemed to go in but with a little struggle. I did not do the slave/ master cylinder and they did not do the clutch line that came with the kit either because there is a lot of rust so as long as it works still they said keep driving it.

I am really not sure about what is going on with the gears. I know a lot of 2003 350z have issues with transmission and grinding gears but not much out there. I heard maybe bleed the slave cylinder or change out the transmission fluid or add some molyslip. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am taking car back to mechanic today he wants to test drive it and see what it could be. Will update soon!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	New Clutch.jpeg
Views:	122
Size:	78.6 KB
ID:	50946   Click image for larger version

Name:	Old Clutch.jpeg
Views:	150
Size:	126.4 KB
ID:	50954   Click image for larger version

Name:	Old Clutch(2).jpeg
Views:	135
Size:	92.9 KB
ID:	50962  

Last edited by rondorfman1; 09-14-2016 at 05:17 PM.
rondorfman1 is offline  
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 09-16-2016, 02:43 PM Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
(Thread Starter)
So I took the car to the mechanic today and had him test drive it and he said it feels perfect.. I took it to a transmission shop as well and had the owner test drive it and he said it feels really good too so not sure. When I was saying it wouldn't go into gear I meant with the car off and the clutch pedal NOT-pressed. But with the clutch pedal pressed down it did go in gear. Ill change out the Clutch fluid because it looked really bad (see picture below) and have the tranny fluid checked also. But so far so good.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	image12.jpg
Views:	132
Size:	127.9 KB
ID:	50970  
rondorfman1 is offline  
post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2016, 11:36 AM
Touring Member
 
dkmura's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 585
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 47 Post(s)
Just spotted the updated replies to this thread today. With regard to your clutch fluid, it doesn't look "really bad" just a bit old. Did you know your clutch system uses brake fluid to operate the hydrallics? Brake fluid darkens after its exposed to heat and water and should be routinely swapped every few years. Consider using a good quality DOT 4 fluid (like ATE Gold 200) to bleed both the clutch and brake systems if you've never done it before.
dkmura is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
Replace with
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome