Nissan 350Z / 370Z Tech Forums banner

Official 3point5 Weight Reduction Thread - Ongoing

100K views 127 replies 16 participants last post by  3point5 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone -
Overview - I bought my 03 Z in late 2005 and have loved it ever since. It's been a project car shortly there after as I have a company vehicle that most my miles go on.

I am pretty much done with modifying the car but still want to go faster. I decided after talking with a fellow motor-head to complete gut the car of all extra, non essential weight.

Here's my phasing:
1. Gut the interior
2. Move items to rebalance the car (battery, fluids, etc.)
3. Add a roll cage??
4. Replace key body parts with carbon fiber and (have them painted back to stock color)??

I will update this post with pictures and information as I get to it...

any and all comments, questions, opinions and thoughts are welcome please keep it positive and any critisism should be tastefully communicated.

Additionally, I want create a comprehensive source for actual weight of body components. I know there is one floating around already but IMO it's too broad. I am talking about creating a itemized list and a weight value for each one.

Thanks again,
3point5
 
See less See more
#2 ·
So this is going to be a track only car? You might as well remove the hump behind the seats. It weighs about 60 lbs.

Regarding the carbon parts, when you start replacing parts that are next to each other (i.e. hood, fender, and door) you will really notice how off the carbon parts will be. It's going to take a lot of work to get a nice fit so be prepared for that. IMO, it's not replacing the aluminum hood. The aluminum hood is about 3 pounds heavier than a carbon/fiberglass hood. If you spend big bucks (~$1300) and get an all carbon hood you may be able to save 8 or 10 lbs.
 
#4 · (Edited)
So this is going to be a track only car? You might as well remove the hump behind the seats. It weighs about 60 lbs.

Regarding the carbon parts, when you start replacing parts that are next to each other (i.e. hood, fender, and door) you will really notice how off the carbon parts will be. It's going to take a lot of work to get a nice fit so be prepared for that. IMO, it's not replacing the aluminum hood. The aluminum hood is about 3 pounds heavier than a carbon/fiberglass hood. If you spend big bucks (~$1300) and get an all carbon hood you may be able to save 8 or 10 lbs.
Track / Project Car...I am planning on purchasing a wagon (even sooner since my late night rumber yesterday).

I've heard the CF hood isnt a great investment. My priorities are the interior, getting the extra weight out/cage in, hatch, doors. I have heard nothing good about the roof, or the fenders as the gains are minimal. I would love to find some cf that has turned yellow, remove the clear coat and have it repainted. If you or anyone you know has CF that has gone yellow please let me know...

Additionally - I want to remove/replace the structural steel bumpers with a modified solutions (whether it's fabing up a aluminum or titanium replacement or modifying the existing...those guys are heavy...)
 
#6 ·
Have you thought of going smaller with the wheels for losing some weight? I think some people run 17's or 18's at the track (sets of spare wheels).
 
#7 · (Edited)
Just remember not to make the front end to light. If it is, you will have a lot of under steer. Try to keep you weight distribution at 53/47.

How to find front/rear percentage: You would have to put weight scales under each tire. Add the two scales in the front .... Get that number and divide it by the total car weight. What ever number you get, multiply it by 100 and you will have the % for the front... Do the same thing for the rear(Add the rear weight scales, divide it by the total car weight and then multiply by 100). If you want to double check your math, both percentages will equal 100%
 
#10 ·
Weight update

Round 1 Weight Measurements

1 each plastic trunk liners 3lbs
1 each strut bar cover + brush alum/plastic "Z" (top) 2lbs
2 each black styrofoam truck spacers 4lbs
2 each hatch back pieces 1.5lbs
1 each trunk lid cover 2lbs
1 each ceiling cover/insulation 5lbs
1 each glovebox/accessories 7lbs
2 each visors 2lbs
2 each rear side window plastic 2.5lbs
1 each hatch cover 4lbs
1 each strut bar cover (front) 1.5lbs
1 each strut bar cover (back) 1lb
1 each truck back cover 2lbs
1 each strut bar cover (bottom) 1lb
2 each misc trunk side liner 1lb
2 each A frame cover 1lbs
1 each "hump" cover (bottom) 5lbs
1 each "hump" cover (top) 5lbs
2 each seatbelt/rear side window covers 1.5lbs
1 each passenger seat 48lbs
2 each floor mats 4lbs
1 each trunk cover/netting 2lbs
1 each spare tire kit 43lbs
1 each trunk weight (not 10lbs) 3lbs
_______________________________________
Round 1 subtotal +/- 152lbs
 
#11 ·
Where is the mystery weight?

I want it out!
 
#18 ·
Reviving this thread…

The weight reduction was put on hold because I was forced to replace my $15,000 oil pressure sensor…but got things straighend-out (along with a few things in my personal/professional life sorted) and the reduction continues!!
 
#19 ·
I removed some of the stereo stuff and some of the console - I'll list their weights but that info is in the garage…I am on the couch...


there are two airbag control boxes(for lack of a proper technical term) that sit right near the e-brake. I have a feeling these are important…so rather than leave them exposed I am going to put them in plastic electronic project boxes - should keep them protected enough.



I have the heated leather seats out and I think I found a guy who is interested in theme and in some of the other interior parts - so I'll sell this guy the seats (but I'm going to hold on to the airbags and remount them) and look into a light weight seat. If I can find something in the neighborhood of 20 to 25 lbs I will be happy - the two OEM seats are 100lbs…crazy...
 
#20 ·
I removed some of the stereo stuff and some of the console - I'll list their weights but that info is in the garage…I am on the couch...


there are two airbag control boxes(for lack of a proper technical term) that sit right near the e-brake. I have a feeling these are important…so rather than leave them exposed I am going to put them in plastic electronic project boxes - should keep them protected enough.



I have the heated leather seats out and I think I found a guy who is interested in theme and in some of the other interior parts - so I'll sell this guy the seats (but I'm going to hold on to the airbags and remount them) and look into a light weight seat. If I can find something in the neighborhood of 20 to 25 lbs I will be happy - the two OEM seats are 100lbs…crazy...

You should check out the Sparco Pro2000 seat. I got it and it has mounting holes on bottom of seat so you can use slider with it. I think total weight is about 19 lbs. for seat. Also you can go with kevlar for even more weight reduction. I really am a fan of the seat, very comfy and it isn't hard to get into it, especially when you can slide the seat back.
 
#23 ·
Gonna call this Round 2:

OEM Headers - 16lbs
Stillen Headers + 14lbs (assumed/guessed)
OEM Cats -24 lbs
OEM Cat bracket - 2lbs
Stillen Test Pipes +16 (assumed/guessed)
Battery/Fluids covers/plastics - 2lbs
Engine Cover - 1lbs
Subwoofer/Plate/Insulation - 6lbs
Rearwiper motor/bracket/arm/wiper - 3lbs
F & R Speakers - 8 lbs
Center Console - 5lbs
Radio - 7lbs
Amp - 4lbs
DVD Reader - 3lbs
Nav Screen/Screen - 5lbs
Door Trim - 1lb
Dashboard & Trim - 20lbs
Interior Carpet/Styrofoam/Sound deadening material - 14 lbs
Driver's Seat - 50lbs
Replacement Drivers Seat +20lbs

Round Two reduction - 133lbs

Project Total = 285lbs
 
#24 ·
Making further progress - the dash was my next step and it went pretty smooth…with the exception of the dash where the passenger airbag sits…if you need to remove this there is one bolt behind the airbag that will release the whole passenger side airbag and passenger side dash.





here's about where I'm at:



I will wrap up all the exposed wires with plastic sleeve and tie it out of the way. After that I will be removing some of the steel arms that held the dash in place...
 
#25 ·
Round 3 will be removing minor brackets in the dash, removing the speaker/sub/glove compartment bar and some minor stuff in the trunk.

I will also be moving my battery from the engine compartment to the trunk to (help out) the balancing. Back in my unemployed-days, I did some land surveying and was on a airport job (denver international) and snagged some of the wiring they use to string runway lights … I'll get a picture for the masses - I think I'll use that...
 
#27 ·
How did you get the speaker bar out so clean?

It's my opinion that the speaker bar helps stiffen the center of the chassis - do you think you've compromised the chassis by removing that top portion? When I take mine out I am going to fab up a simple triangular cross brace to mount in it's place.
 
#28 ·
In a sense yes I believe I compromised the chassis a little. I have plans for a Kirk bolt in cage which should add it back but without the top speakers it would be a little cleaner look.


Your idea is a nice idea the speaker box is a higher/thickness than the compartment is. What's left in the picture above is really thin flimsy sheets, only the divider is sturdy.
 
#31 ·
got on the speaker bar and glove compartment/sub enclosure out this afternoon. For the most part I needed the angle-grinder to remove the big parts. There are still a few more chunks that are still in but I will have to remove them with a dremel.

I weighed what I got out and the combined weight was 22lbs. For my numbers I am going to use 25lbs because there are still a few pieces left in.





Round 3:

Speaker Bar -10lbs
Glove/Sub Box (main piece) -22lbs
Loose Pieces -??
Front Bumper Reduction -3lbs
Rear Bumper Reduction -8lbs
Washer/Antifreeze Fluid reduction -??

Round 3 Total -43lbs + ??

Project Total 328lbs + ??
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top