window motor fix - Nissan 350Z Forum : 350Z / 370Z Tech Forums

ieatpelicans · 02-06-2010, 10:33 PM

guys,

recently my drivers side window started playing up. My passenger side seized up a few months ago, so last night i bit the bullet and decided to have a go at the window motor fix detailed in this thread.

Whilst the idea of taking the entire door apart is a little daunting for someone with limited DIY experience, i gotta say it was pretty easy. I followed the instructions (read the whole of the thread because the author doesn't get it right the first time). The hardest part is getting the steel backing plate back into to position when you are reassembling the door because you have to get the plate to line up with the window rails and the window rails move around a bit when you remove the backing plate. But when i got my missus to hold the window in position, it was pretty easy.

The only thing i did slightly differently was gently sanding back the brass contacts on the spindle with 800 grit sandpaper so that they were proper shiny. The end result was excellent. Window works perfectly! All it cost me was $10 for a can of WD40 and some sandpaper. I'm planning on doing the passenger side in a couple of days. Ill let you know it goes =)

92K1500 · 02-06-2010, 10:43 PM

Hey just an FYI, there is an easier way to get into the door than unbolting the rails from the panel.

There should be 3 larger stickers covering holes that have your window screws in them. Take out the 3 screws and slide the window up out the top of the door, then you can take out the perimeter bolts on the panel and the motor/rails all come out as one piece, then you can do your work on it, stick it back in as one piece, drop the window back down into the door and put the 3 screws back in. You have to adjust your window positioning to get the best seal, but it makes life a lot easier. I found this out the hard way.

If you download the PDF of the service manual off here it has pictures of where everything is located in it.

monk13 · 02-07-2010, 12:19 PM

I'm going to have to do this soon. Worst thing for me is the amount of dynamat i have there...

**SmoothZ** · 02-07-2010, 04:22 PM

QUOTE (IEatPelicans @ Feb 6 2010, 09:33 PM)

Quote:

Whilst the idea of taking the entire door apart is a little daunting for someone with limited DIY experience, i gotta say it was pretty easy. I followed the instructions (read the whole of the thread because the author doesn't get it right the first time). The hardest part is getting the steel backing plate back into to position when you are reassembling the door because you have to get the plate to line up with the window rails and the window rails move around a bit when you remove the backing plate. But when i got my missus to hold the window in position, it was pretty easy.

The only thing i did slightly differently was gently sanding back the brass contacts on the spindle with 800 grit sandpaper so that they were proper shiny. The end result was excellent. Window works perfectly! All it cost me was $10 for a can of WD40 and some sandpaper. I'm planning on doing the passenger side in a couple of days. Ill let you know it goes =)

:xZ!o: Hey now! It was my first time and I was taking pics for the benefit of the members.

Big D · 02-07-2010, 10:15 PM

I believe that lots have gotten their windows working again by opening the window motor casing, taking out the rotor & cleaning up both the copper commutator & freeing up the 2 small square carbon brushes (that are spring loaded & pushed onto the copper commutator). However, lots have also found that this is largely a short term fix & its not long before it all stops working again.

All the black gunk we have all found & cleaned up is carbon dust from the 2 worn out carbon brushes. The brushes have a spring behind them that keeps them pushed up against the copper commutator as it spins. As the brushes wear out they get too short & the springs can no longer push them against the copper commutator with enough pressure to maintain electrical contact. No sparky current, No window worky!! (That's why when you thump the door, the parts make contact & it works again). If you want to fix your window properly you will need to pull apart the whole motor assembly to get access to the brushes & replace them.

De Rossi Industries in Sydney sourced brushes of a similar size & I filed them down to fit the motor. You then need to solder in the new brushes & the assembly unit & put it all back together.

All up it cost $24.00 for the brushes & a bit of my time but it all works perfectly now.

ky350 · 02-09-2010, 06:04 AM

Nice job Big D - do you want to fix mine when the screew up next? Of course i'll pay you - cash or beer -your choice!

Big D · 02-09-2010, 07:55 PM

QUOTE (KY350 @ Feb 9 2010, 10:04 PM)

Quote:

Nice job Big D - do you want to fix mine when the screew up next? Of course i'll pay you - cash or beer -your choice!

Ha Ha Thanks KY350 though you may be lucky, your brushes may last forever!!! This forum has taught me HEAPS so I'm happy to contribute. I've taken pictures of the process but haven't worked out how to post them.

aust350z · 02-11-2010, 02:53 AM

Imageshack in the meantime.

02-06-2010, 10:33 PM	#1 (permalink)
ieatpelicans Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Perth Posts: 256	guys, recently my drivers side window started playing up. My passenger side seized up a few months ago, so last night i bit the bullet and decided to have a go at the window motor fix detailed in this thread. Whilst the idea of taking the entire door apart is a little daunting for someone with limited DIY experience, i gotta say it was pretty easy. I followed the instructions (read the whole of the thread because the author doesn't get it right the first time). The hardest part is getting the steel backing plate back into to position when you are reassembling the door because you have to get the plate to line up with the window rails and the window rails move around a bit when you remove the backing plate. But when i got my missus to hold the window in position, it was pretty easy. The only thing i did slightly differently was gently sanding back the brass contacts on the spindle with 800 grit sandpaper so that they were proper shiny. The end result was excellent. Window works perfectly! All it cost me was $10 for a can of WD40 and some sandpaper. I'm planning on doing the passenger side in a couple of days. Ill let you know it goes =) __________________ '03 Track, Motordyne 5/16 isothermal spacer, JWT popcharger, Anniversary Rims.

02-07-2010, 12:19 PM	#3 (permalink)
monk13 Touring Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Perth (Australia) Posts: 516	I'm going to have to do this soon. Worst thing for me is the amount of dynamat i have there... __________________ WANTED: Rich uncle. About to die. Must be willing to leave me all his money.

02-11-2010, 02:53 AM	#8 (permalink)
aust350z Grand Touring Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Melbourne, Australia Posts: 1,007	Imageshack in the meantime. __________________ 2003 LeMans Sunset Touring Coupe

02-06-2010, 10:43 PM	#2 (permalink)
92K1500 Base Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Tulsa, OK Posts: 100	Hey just an FYI, there is an easier way to get into the door than unbolting the rails from the panel. There should be 3 larger stickers covering holes that have your window screws in them. Take out the 3 screws and slide the window up out the top of the door, then you can take out the perimeter bolts on the panel and the motor/rails all come out as one piece, then you can do your work on it, stick it back in as one piece, drop the window back down into the door and put the 3 screws back in. You have to adjust your window positioning to get the best seal, but it makes life a lot easier. I found this out the hard way. If you download the PDF of the service manual off here it has pictures of where everything is located in it.

02-07-2010, 10:15 PM	#5 (permalink)
Big D Base Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Sydney Posts: 34	I believe that lots have gotten their windows working again by opening the window motor casing, taking out the rotor & cleaning up both the copper commutator & freeing up the 2 small square carbon brushes (that are spring loaded & pushed onto the copper commutator). However, lots have also found that this is largely a short term fix & its not long before it all stops working again. All the black gunk we have all found & cleaned up is carbon dust from the 2 worn out carbon brushes. The brushes have a spring behind them that keeps them pushed up against the copper commutator as it spins. As the brushes wear out they get too short & the springs can no longer push them against the copper commutator with enough pressure to maintain electrical contact. No sparky current, No window worky!! (That's why when you thump the door, the parts make contact & it works again). If you want to fix your window properly you will need to pull apart the whole motor assembly to get access to the brushes & replace them. De Rossi Industries in Sydney sourced brushes of a similar size & I filed them down to fit the motor. You then need to solder in the new brushes & the assembly unit & put it all back together. All up it cost $24.00 for the brushes & a bit of my time but it all works perfectly now.

02-09-2010, 06:04 AM	#6 (permalink)
ky350 Grand Touring Member Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 1,172	Nice job Big D - do you want to fix mine when the screew up next? Of course i'll pay you - cash or beer -your choice!

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