[How To] change your oil on Nissan 350z - Nissan 350Z Forum, Nissan 370Z Tech Forums
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#1 (permalink) Old 06-18-2006, 02:39 PM
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I noticed there aren't many tutorials on the web on how to change the engine oil for the Nissan 350z, here is how I do it, please follow the instructions diligently as I am not liable for damage or personal injury. I recommend changing your oil once every 6,000 Kms or 4,000 Miles. I use 5 Litres of Mobil Synthetic 5W30 + Fram Oil Filters, OEM one claims to have a relief valve, but Nissan always likes to make you buy their products =), I have no problems with FRAM Oil Filters and I've been using them since day one on all my cars.

Step 1: Warm up your vehicle, dirty oil comes out faster and easier when the oil is hot.

Step 2: Loosen oil filter cap and pull out the oil dip stick, this will also speed up the flowing process. (see step1.jpg)

Step 3: Jack up your car using an appropriate jack and because the 350z is a very low car, its imperative that you use a jackstand and a piece of wood to block one of the wheels so the car doesn't roll off.

Step 4: Remove plastic panel that covers the bottom of the engine. (see step2.jpg) It is held down by screws and plastic clips.

Step 5: Remove the drain bolt and let the oil drain out completely in a oild pan.

Step 6: Install the drain bolt and make sure you use a copper drain plug gasket. (Nissan uses a special copper drain plug that is around 2 mm thick, when you tighten the bolt, the washer thins out. You can get these at your Nissan Parts Counter for about $1 each. Tighten drain bolt at 29.4-39.2 NM or 22-28 FT-LB using a torque wrench.

Step 7: Remove oil filter using oil filter removal tool. (see step3.jpg) You can buy the one from Nissan Part no. KV10115801, its just a simple oil filter wrench that fits perfectly on the oil filter. When installing the new filter, use your fingers and rub some new oil on the filters o-ring. Tighten the oil filter at 14.7-20.5 NM or 11-15 FT-LB.

Step 8 : Wipe off visible oil on the filter and drain bolt area. Re-install plastic cover (see step2.jpg)

Step 9 : Remove Jacks, Wood blocks and Jackstands.

Step 10 : Pour in 4.7 Litres of new engine oil (use a funnel it helps), turn on the car and let it run for a couple minutes. Check for leaks, add additional oil until the oil level is centered (between low and high) on the dipstick.

Hope you enjoyed my tutorial, if you have any questions you can contact me at sales@diyleather.com!

Tabo
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#2 (permalink) Old 06-18-2006, 04:09 PM
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If this tutorial isn't already in the Wiki you'd be awesome if you added it in there.
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#3 (permalink) Old 07-13-2006, 01:08 AM
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If this tutorial isn't already in the Wiki you'd be awesome if you added it in there.
+1

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#4 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 02:26 PM
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for those who are doing it themselves or asking about it.

"Sometimes I think the surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us." - Calvin
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#5 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 06:55 PM
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How do you not know how to change your own oil??????
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#6 (permalink) Old 11-13-2006, 08:22 PM
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How do you not know how to change your own oil??????
There are plenty that don't

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#7 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 02:53 AM
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hmm... didn't realize there was a copper gasket that should be replaced (only had my z 1000 miles, haven't gotten around to the first oil change yet)
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#8 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 09:00 AM
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I'd like to throw some comments in here about oil changes just for the hell of it. It is just my own opinion but it is always interesting to see what others think...

My Dad was a DIY kinda man when it came to cars and always did his own servicing. He taught me that Oil was thin when it got hot and that you should always warm up the engine before an oil change. Same thing was taught at the trades college when I was a young apprentice (a lifetime ago).

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Step 1: Warm up your vehicle, dirty oil comes out faster and easier when the oil is hot.
I have always performed my own servicing, hell my hobby when I was a young fella was to find well seasoned rusty old engine blocks (usually lying in the grass at a wrecking yard) , crack test, machine and re-build with a few extra goodies. My first three V8s were done that way.

Anyway, got to think'n that the engine in my car was hot last time I drove it into the garage and in my case (weekend driver) it has been sitting there all week. All the oil that could possibly drain down into the sump is there already. Why would I want to warm the engine up and pump all that oil back up into the top of the motor?!

TIP: Just remove your filler cap (no need to remove dip stick and no need to warm up the engine) and let the oil drain from the sump.

Quote:
I recommend changing your oil once every 6,000 Kms or 4,000 Miles.
If you don't track your car and you use a full Synthetic oil then every 6,000 miles or 10,000 kms is just fine.

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I use 5 Litres of Mobil Synthetic 5W30 + Fram Oil Filters...
I use Nulon 10w40 full Synthetic and K&N HP1008 oil filter... f#ck Nissan and their spare parts.

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Install the drain bolt and make sure you use a copper drain plug gasket. (Nissan uses a special copper drain plug that is around 2 mm thick, when you tighten the bolt, the washer thins out. You can get these at your Nissan Parts Counter for about $1 each.
Hmmmm... Nissan spare parts again... yes the washer thins out slightly but that is no reason to replace it too early. You will get about 10+ oil changes out of that washer if you do not remove it from the plug (leave it exactly as it is) so that the wear marks are not mismatched when you re-tighten. If you like you can replace with a suitable O'ring.

TIP: Don't run your oil level on the high mark.

Every engine is obviously a little different but I never run the oil right at the high mark on the dip stick. Not sure about the VQ35 but with some engines, the crankshaft will have to plough through the oil in the sump if the level is just high enough. The reason highly modified engines use windage trays and dry sump systems is to gain horsepower by reducing the oil mist in the sump (almost like aerdynamics for your crankshaft). Not that I am suggesting we need to go that far. Because of the shape of the sump you will most likely find that about 4 Litres accounts for the bit below the low level mark and the other .7 of a Litre accounts for the distance between the low and high marks.

Running your oil at about 2/3 between the low and high marks is a good place to be. It used to absolutely shit me on the rare occassion I had any sort of service work done at a dealer, they would always over-fill the engine with oil because they did not allow it to drain back before checking the dip stick.

Anyway that is my 2c worth.
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#9 (permalink) Old 12-13-2006, 09:09 AM
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See .. good reason for this tutorial to be in the wiki. The wiki isn't a static object by design but as dynamic as those using it want. Tabo can post the article to the wiki. Groover can add to it. I can add to it. The theory being that not one person has the answers .. but as a community we can get closer ..

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#10 (permalink) Old 04-07-2007, 07:47 PM
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